Day 42 – Pepin to La Crosse

72 miles.  Good biking day … for the most part.

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This collection of skis formed a fence along the road as we left Pepin. Note the Hilary sign – the second one we’ve seen on our trip that now numbers 6 states.

Our route stayed on State 35, The Great River Road, from the beginning almost to our hotel in Onalaska, La Crosse.  We never strayed far from the Mississippi or the train tracks so it was flat most of the way with a decent shoulder and smooth pavement.

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When we had our three day stay in Glacier National Park waiting for the pass to open we attended a Park Ranger lecture about bald eagles and learned that at one point, the total US population of the national bird was 480 mating pairs, endangered by the use of DDT.  Genetic studies place the minimum number of mating pairs necessary for any species’ survival somewhere around 460 so bald eagles were truly on the knife edge of extinction. Now there are estimated to be over 5000 nesting pairs in the continental US with an estimated 70,000 birds in North America. Yesterday when we stopped for lunch we saw two bald eagles swooping low and landing on a spit of land in the river. Today we saw two more of them, one in a tree next to the road. We also saw lots of vultures but the bald eagle’s survival is an arresting story.

We stopped for lunch at a fruit and vegetable stand and were told of a more scenic short cut to La Crosse so, against the cyclists’ rule never to trust a non-cyclist for route information, we followed her advice and enjoyed a few miles of country road cycling away from the zooming trucks on the state road.

After we rejoined old 35 for the last run in to town we made the decision to follow the business loop instead of the busy highway. Cue the “Fail” buzzer! We had to fight for road space along a 5 mile construction zone with no shoulder, no place to pull off and impatient motorists and truck drivers squeezing by us with little or no room to do so. It was a very stressful end to the day.

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This cluster of water lilies reminded us both of the dendriform columns that Wright used in the Great Workroom at the Johnson’s Wax Building

Tomorrow we will be on one of the first rail to trail bike paths in the country that, we are assured, is in better repair than the reviews

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Maja posing with corn that is growing ever taller as we ride along

Wisconsinites

20:6.  I’m surprised by how many more of the one thing I’m counting there are than the other and also by how low both numbers are given that we’ve covered over 2,000 miles.

We are spending the night in Pepin, Wisconsin, a wonderful little lakeside town.  In fact, we had the best dinner of our trip so far at a restaurant called Harbor View Cafe. I would highly recommend it to anyone who is in this neck of the woods.

Also of interest is that Laura Ingalls Wilder, the author of Little House on the Prairie, was born just 6 miles north of here in February 1867, 4 months before Frank Lloyd Wright was born, also in Wisconsin–in Richland Center–about 120 miles or so from here.  Laura became a school teacher at age 16 and was married at age 18.  She didn’t start writing until age 65 and was surprised at how popular her books were.  She continued writing until her death in 1957 at age 90.

As I was reading the historic marker about Laura and realized that she was born the same year as Frank Lloyd Wright, I couldn’t help but compare her with him. There were certainly many similarities from the start-both were born in the same year in Wisconsin, not far apart, and both were from families of limited means but which were very focused on education.  Interestingly, neither had formal training in their field of success. Frank never went to architecture school and Laura never graduated from high school.  Both were also very successful late in their careers. While Frank had had major successes throughout his career, he also reinvented himself several times over the course of his life. For example, he started thinking about and planning the Guggenheim Museum–considered to be one of his masterpieces–about the same time as Laura began writing her books at age 65 and the building was completed in 1959, the year of Wright’s death at age 91.

Of course, there were also significant differences in their personalities.  Laura was very surprised that anyone would be interested in reading her books, since she didn’t consider herself a writer and was not particularly well educated even though she had been a teacher.  Frank, on the other hand, was supremely self-confident, bordering on arrogant, and once suggested that he could rebuild the nation in an interview with Mike Wallace.  I wonder what they thought of each other.  They were quite famous, so I imagine they knew of each other and their common backgrounds. It’s interesting to ponder…

The Willey House

Steve Sikora and Lynette Erickson-Sikora took on the challenge of restoring The Malcolm and Nancy Willey House (1934) in 2002. After the Willeys, the house had seen several owners and eventually sat derelict for several years exposed to the elements.  Parts of the house were never fully fleshed out even though Nancy Willey prevailed upon Wright to provide drawings for built ins and other cabinetry.  Steve and Lynette have done a prodigious amount of research on the house and have found drawings, period photographs, and letters between Wright and the Willeys in their effort to faithfully bring the house back to its original glory.

This house is the earliest expression of Wright’s Usonian ideas – open plan, L shaped around a garden terrace, simple materials, etc. and may be the inspiration for ranch houses of later years. It is Wright’s further exploration into redefining how the Amrican family lives. The clients represented a younger, middle class market that was different from Wright’s “typical” clients from his earlier Prairie style years who were older, wealthier and required larger homes. From the description that Steve gave us as he showed us the house, Nancy Willey was as influential in the design of the house as was Wright and wanted a house that was easy to maintain and that could work with them in the entertaining that was a part of their University of Minnesota life.

Originally, the odd shaped lot featured panoramic views of the Mississippi River and Wright oriented the house and developed the plan utilizing many diagonal aspects of the site’s relation to the river.

At every turn, from the reconstruction of the kitchen cabinets to the acquisition of period authentic appliances and furnishings and the craftsmanship of Stafford Norris,  the attention to the details throughout is impressive and inspiring.

Our few photos don’t do the restoration of the Willey House justice nor does my writing so I encourage you to go to the Willey House website for in depth information and beautiful photographs. www.thewilleyhouse.com.

Thank you Sterve for meeting us for the very informative tour on a Sunday morning and for all the work and TLC you and your family have put into this restoration.

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Day 41 – Golden Valley (-ish) to Pepin.

45 miles. It’s more like 60 from Craig and Steve’s house but since this part of our journey is the 180 mile detour to Spring Green and Taliesin and not on our cross country route, we “allowed” Steve to drive us through the Twin Cities (simply called “The Cities” around these parts) and rush hour traffic to the town of Prescot, WI, where we began pedaling. Please don’t think we are cheating, these are extra miles and in a different category! But we did appreciate the ride.

On the way we were alerted by a passing motorist that one of our bikes was perilously close to falling off of Steve’s bike rack and, after stopping, we found that my bike was being dragged on its rear tire! A careful inspection in Prescot showed only a scuffed tire so disaster was avoided.

The forecast for today had been for very strong winds in our faces and sunshine but the day, thankfully, started very overcast and almost windless. So away we went. I think we have determined that two days’ rest is too much for our legs and our motivation because today was hard. There were lots of ups and downs but the old energy levels just weren’t there. Going forward we may limit our rest days to a mere one.

For the most part the ride went smoothly – nice shoulder, not too much traffic, glimpses of the river. We reached Lake Pepin. The lake is more like a bulge in the Mississippi formed by the confluence of that river and the Cherokee eons ago.

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Lake Pepin

We had a nice break for lunch at a park on a bluff above the lake where we saw a pair of bald eagles on the river below.

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Lunch break high above Lake Pepin

We then pedaled the rest of the way into the town of Pepin and the Pepin Hotel. It was hot for the last part of our ride so we walked to the public beach (they also have a nice sheltered marina for sailboats) and dunked ourselves.

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A refreshing dip in the Mississip.

On the way to the beach we spotted a nice looking restaurant for dinner and we just ate there, by unanimous acclaim the best meal we’ve had on our trip so far! We heartily recommend the Harbor View Café.

Tomorrow we’re off to La Crosse, WI, and had planned on taking a scenic bike path that runs through state parks and bird sanctuaries but a little research revealed that the trail is suffering greatly from lack of maintenance due to state budget cuts and is unrideable with our bikes. There is a fee for using the trail so one has to wonder where that money is going.

Antique shops on the route and you can tell folks around here take their fishing seriously!

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I think I could catch up with Maja on this thing!

Cast your vote for the most ridiculous tan lines. Vote early and vote often.

Another Fine Rest Day

We’ll get back on the road tomorrow I promise but we’ve needed these two days to recharge. First of all and most importantly, thanks to our friends Craig and Steve for putting us up, feeding us and allowing us to take a breather in their fabulous house. They helped us get our bikes to the One on One bike shop downtown for overhauls so our wheels are as good as new and ready to roll. Maja’s bike needed a new rear tire, the cables on both bikes needed tightening and both chains were replaced.  Thanks to Gene and crew for giving the Surlys the TLC they needed.  We feel confident they are up to the task of getting us to Bar Harbor.

This afternoon we reconnected with our friends Kip and Cindy we knew originally in Belgium – old home week – for a lunch full of old stories and laughter! This evening we’ll load up our panniers and make sure all is shipshape.

This morning Steve Sikora showed us the Willey House, an unforgettable experience of a meticulously restored and very important 1934 Wright house. I’ll write more about that in a separate blog.

Singing the praises of warm showers

18:6  OK.  You all have not been guessing what these numbers mean. So I’m going to start giving you hints.  Remember, the winner gets a Frank Lloyd Wright design phone cover.

Hint # 1:  the numbers compare two different things.  They increase more rapidly in larger towns/cities.

I have been asked by some to provide a little more info on our Warm Showers hosts and experiences so here goes (sorry, no great photos).

As you know from our previous postings, our warm showers experiences have been 100% positive from a purely people perspective.  Our hosts have been welcoming, generous and warm.  So it will come as no surprise that most of them are in service related jobs, or were before they retired.  Hosts have included teachers, social workers (addiction, child welfare, parental instruction), physicians, hospital technicians, government workers (Federal, State and City).  In fact, we have had only one host that hasn’t fit into the service-related category in some way.  Many are active Christians and believe strongly in being generous towards others.  Most, but not all, had some level of cycling experience.

Our routine when we arrive is to be shown our room (we spent the night in a tent at one warm showers location) where we drop our gear.  We then take a shower, which makes us feel human again, and if we need to, do a laundry.  We then get together with our hosts to get acquainted and then generally have dinner together.  Sometimes we help.  Most often we are ordered to just relax.  Dinners have been without exception fabulous!  Pasta is generally the meal of preference, but we have had chili, bento boxes, and chicken with quinoa (which we actually fixed for one of our hosts who had had a long day).  We tend to turn in pretty early and get up at 6 am to be on the road by 7 am.  Our hosts have also treated us to yummy breakfasts–often including pancakes!  I am a pancake convert.  At home I eat oatmeal pretty much every day for breakfast but have only had oatmeal once since we’ve been on our journey.

Homes have ranged from farm houses, to lake houses, to apartments, to subdivision homes, to city homes, to houses in the middle of nowhere.  Everyone of them has been a unique slice of America and has offered us insights into the American experience.

Our dinner conversations have been the best part of our warm shower travels.  We have learned so much!

Three of our hosts have been involved in animal husbandry.  We could have talked about that all day long.  John and Mary raised Angus cattle, principally to sell the bulls and calves or to use the Bulls as breed stock. The day we were there, they had just finished the long and arduous process of artificially inseminating their cows.  Once that was done, they would also cover the cows with visits from live bulls, just to improve the chances of insemination.  The plan is that cows will give birth more or less at the same time, making life very hectic around calving time, but also improving predictability.  Insemination is done in the field with the cattle being rounded up on horseback and herded into enclosures. Andrew and Gretchen’s family raise turkeys and have done so for generations.  We had no idea that Minnesota is one of the biggest turkey states in the country.  They also focus on selling the offspring, rather than the meat.  In this case, they sell fertilized eggs and Gretchen spent some time for a couple of years gathering eggs from the nests, which involves lifting the turkeys off their nests and reaching in for the eggs.  There are several shifts of egg thieves every day and thousands of birds.  Amazing and incredibly hard work, I imagine.  Lifting one turkey from the freezer to the counter is about all I can handle!  And Jason’s family has been raising bees for five generations.  If they didn’t move the bees from California, where they pollinate almond trees, to North Dakota every year, they would have to feed the bees because there’s not enough pollen in California during the summer for the bees to survive.   Jason also said that his grandfather didn’t have to worry about all the diseases and hive collapse that bee keepers face today.  They lose about 50% of their hives every year, but they have enough hives that they can split to make up for the loss.  Smaller bee keepers have a much more difficult time.  We tasted some of their product, and it was yummy!

Bonnie and her husband Jeff have opened their house to others for years.  They live in an area that, until recently, had a baseball team that played in the league for college players to improve their skills during the summer–like the Cape Cod league and they have housed numerous players over the years.  Consequently, they know and have kept in touch with several pro baseball players.  Keeping in touch includes calling them for every home run and sending them home made chocolate chip cookies every year on their birthdays. Unfortunately, the team recently went belly up, but the upside for us was that Bonnie and Jeff are now warm showers hosts to fill some of the void. They also own a lakeside resort in Minnesota that they run on the honor system. You leave a check to cover your stay when you leave. Isn’t that wonderful? And they’ve never had a problem.

Ron and Joyce both had very challenging and rewarding careers in working with drug addicts and child services. They spent the evening after dinner with us driving us around Bismarck and being incredible tour guides. This was way above and beyond, but clearly they also enjoyed it so we didn’t feel too guilty. It was so nice to see things that we normally would not have from our bikes and to do it from the comfort of a car.

Joel was a man after Charles’ heart–a baseball fanatic, albeit a Cubs fan. So he and Charles talked for hours while I went downstairs and read. A rewarding evening for all involved 😉.

And of course we have always learned about the local environment, politics, and life in general.

I could go on and on, but won’t bore you. We can’t wait to get back home and become hosts ourselves. Phoenix is on the Southern cross-country route, so we’re hoping to be able to reciprocate in some small way for all of the hospitality we’ve received. If you’re interest, search for warm showers and you’ll find everything you need to know.

 

Day 38 – St. Cloud to Golden Valley (Minneapolis)

57 miles. Nice tail wind following the Mississippi into Minneapolis

After a great dinner and night’s sleep we got away early. John was kind enough to hop on his bike and guide us out of town and on our way.  Several days ago we met a cyclist from Minnesota who advised us that the official American Cycling maps take a big semi circle around Minneapolis and bring you in from the east and he suggested staying on the rail to trails into St. Cloud and into Minneapolis from the west. This change saved at least a day on our trek if not two and many miles.

So, thanks to John we got on our route quickly and enjoyed a full day of tail winds. His directions were turn perfect and Susan’s cookies kept us energized til we reached our rendezvous point where our friend Steve from Paradise Valley (he and Craig also have a fantastic house in the Golden Valley part of Minneapolis) met us. Like a well coordinated military maneuver, Steve loaded our bikes onto the car and drove us downtown to the One on One bike shop recommended by Surly, the manufacturer of our bikes, for a mid tour overhaul.

We are back at Steve and Craig’s and will luxuriate for a two day rest!  Woo!

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Hard at work on the blog!

 

Day 37 – Garfield to St. Cloud

74 miles. All but a few on the Lake Wobegon bike trail.

I was never a big fan of The Prairie Home Companion but if the legacy is this bike path (another rail to trail initiative) then that’s OK by me. Most of the route had been fairly recently resurfaced so the going was very smooth. The wind was against us but since the bike path is sheltered we made good time.

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Bonnie had sent us off with a good breakfast, lunch sandwiches and cookies! We stopped for lunch at the picnic tables of a community center in St. Joseph and there was a family sitting at another bench with an extension cord plugged into the exterior outlet charging their cell phones so we felt the center was an active hub in the community!

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I don’t think this tandem is going anywhere soon.

The path ends on the southern side of St. Joseph and we had another 7 miles to go back on a busy 4 lane road.  We clearly had grown accustomed to the peace and quiet of the paths because the truck noise was unnerving.  Certainly we had experienced worse conditions on the small roads in Montana and North Dakota but the contrast between the smooth sailing of the last two days with the sudden immersion into traffic unsettled us… but we pushed on.

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This poor old thing had been worked hard in its day and now left to rust. We’ve seen many relics like this tucked away in the corners of fields.

John and Susan were our warm showers hosts and they welcomed us in. After showers and re cycling we had a great dinner of “American Bento Box.” Susan helps a friend whose restaurant is selling her version of the bento box with rice, quinoa, chicken, red meat, veggies, freshly chopped ginger all topped with various sauces. Our meal was essentially leftovers from the weekly market the night before so it may have been the best and most nutritious free meal we’ve had.

Two paths leading into an infinite future!!

Day 36 – Pelican Rapids to Garfield

72 miles. Finally reached the rail to trail part of the trip.

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This is reputed to be the largest pelican in the world nested by the river with Pelican Rapids in the background.

We had a great night in Pelican Rapids, even made dinner for our host Gretchen and learned how their little town has changed over the past few years.  Gretchen and her husband Andrew not only run the store and the hot dog and ice cream but also have a florist business, kayak and canoe rental, have planted hops and a few other enterprises.

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Lake after lake after lake into the distance.

Got an early start complete with a hearty McDonald’s breakfast and rode the very hilly first part of the day’s trek to Fergus Falls where, with difficulty, we finally found the Central Lakes Trail, a paved former rail line that will take us most of the way to St. Cloud. It is definitely nice riding on the path and not worrying about traffic or rumble strips but the down side is that we don’t get to see a lot of the surrounding country side since the trail is mostly wooded on both sides.  But the good outweighs the bad in this case so we made haste to another warm showers hosts, Bonnie and Jeff,  in a beautiful house on Lake Lida. As we have discovered, this whole 6 degrees of separation is a myth, the truth is we are separated by only 2 or 3 degrees! Bonnie and Jeff’s son is starting graduate school soon at ASU in Tempe, Jeff grew up in a small town in central Missouri near where my family is from, his grandfather had a medical practice in Webster Groves and their daughter is graduating from Northwestern med school.

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Too bad we don’t have time to enjoy our hosts’ pier and lake.

Tomorrow we get back on the Central Lakes Trail and will connect with (wait for it) The Lake Wobegon Trail. The last part of the ride today was on a washboard dirt road and Bonnie has volunteered to drive us back to the trail just to give us a break from the jolting ride back tomorrow.