Day 73 – Zimmerman House

We started the day with excellent massages arranged by Camilla. After getting Maja a new front tire yesterday, I was thinking I may need new ones, too, so while Maja was getting her treatment I took my bike to Omer and Bob’s to have them take a look. Over the last few days I had the feeling that my tires were at the very least under inflated and seemed as though I was struggling up the hills and couldn’t even catch Maja on the downhills, usually, because of my weight advantage, where I can shine. The mechanic looked at the tires and said they were still in good shape and didn’t need replacing. I asked him to inflate them using the shop’s pump and gauge to check that the tires were inflated to the recommended 65 psi. I had been topping them up periodically with my travel pump and gauge to that pressure since Montana. I was very surprised when he checked and each tire was only up to 30 psi!!! No wonder I thought I was fighting against my tires. The new pump/gauge I bought in Minnesota is worthless. I hope proper inflation will help me on the hills.

After all this excitement we drove to Marchester for our scheduled tour of the Zimmerman house, the last Wright building we will visit on our cross country ride. Wright designed this Usonian house for his clients, Dr. Isadore and Lucille Zimmerman, in 1950. When built the house was often ridiculed by the neighbors since it didn’t fit the style of the other houses but the Zimmerman’s said it was the best money they ever spent. They left the house to the Currier Museum that undertook major renovations and now curates the house.

The house is similar to the other Usonian houses we have seen but is a later refinement of Wright’s design – L shape open plan, radiant heating, natural ventilation and blending of interior and exterior spaces. Visitors are not allowed to take pictures on the inside so follow up with this web site for photos of the house.

I’ll add to this entry in a few days with more details.

Day 72 -Rochester to E. Thetford

51 miles. Early morning fog, fairly big climb, heat and good tip from fellow cyclist

Thanks to Richard and Debbie, our hosts at the Pumpkin Patch BnB, for getting up before dawn to fix us a delicious and energy sustaining breakfast. We headed on the road around 6 and within the first mile we saw two adult beavers and a pup swimming in the river.

Gently rolling hills with an overall downhill trajectory took us to Bethel and eventually to the base of our major climb outside of Sharon. We peaked out at 1500 feet over 4.5 miles and when I caught up with Maja waiting at the top she was talking to a cyclist who had climbed up the other side on his ultralight road bike. We talked for a while and he warned us it would be “wicked hot” but that we had a nice a nice downhill in front of us. We parted and we headed down one side as he rode down the other. It was indeed a nice long downhill and after 20 minutes who should pull up behind us but our friend from the top caught up with us! That meant he had biked to the bottom of the climb at Sharon, turned around and sped back up the hill, crested and caught us on the downhill side. Amazing. In our defense he was riding a light road bike, was in great shape, was not carrying panniers and knew the road. But still…

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Still smiling after almost 4000 miles!

Toward the end our maps advised us to turn left through Thetford to East Thetford where we were to meet Camilla. Just before that turn our buddy said that road was under construction and had two climbs on the way to our destination but if we stayed on the road we were on, we would get to East Thetford without construction or climbs but added about 4 miles to the journey. We trust road advice from cyclists over that of people who don’t ride so we thanked him as we took the flatter route.

We met up with Camilla right on time at Isabell’s Cafe in East Thetford and we sat for a bit talking and into the restaurant walked our cycling friend!

So now we have a much needed rest day as we prepare for the last legs of our trip. We got a new front tire for Maja’s bike (we each have 2 new tires since our departure) at Omer and Bob’s bike shop in Lebanon.

Maja and I had a meeting at Dartmouth (Maja’s alma mater) in the afternoon so we had some time after that to revisit the campus after which we returned to Camilla’s house for dinner and Olympics watching.

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Baker Hall at Dartmouth (the library)

Tomorrow we have massages in the morning and a tour of the Zimmerman House in Manchester and meet up with two of Maja’s college friends and Saturday we head into New Hampshire and over the White Mountains – you guessed it, more climbs.

Day 71 – Ticonderoga to Rochester, VT

47 miles. A grey day and a long slog up Brandon Gap in high humidity

We are out of NY and into our 9th state, Vermont. Starting early, we pedaled to the ferry landing and waited for the first eastbound trip.

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The ferry arrives. That’s Vermont on the other shore

Once over into VT, it started to rain, as was predicted for the entire day, but stopped after about 15 minutes and didn’t rain the rest of the day.

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Our host Richard at tonight’s BnB, the Pumpkin Patch, had told me by phone that the ACA route was under construction and he had learned from other cyclists to avoid the path through Middlebury and take #73. There would be climbs, he assured me, but once over the gap it would be downhill the rest of the way into Rochester. And what a climb it was.

We thought we had found a short cut to Richard’s route that would have made today a manageable 38 miles but, as these things sometimes go, our wonderful little short cut was blocked by a crew replacing a culvert on the road. We stared longingly at the other side of the hole being dug and our dream was to walk our bikes the 25 feet over the ditch to resume our ride. The foreman was adamant about his liability risk so refused our plaintive begging. The work-around added 9 miles or so to our day that was no longer the manageable ride we had planned.

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We spent at least 20 minutes begging to be allowed to walk our bikes over to the promised land on the other side of the ditch. but to no avail. What you probably can’t see is the frustration on my face. The detour erased all of the advantage our short cut would have created.

The temps were cool but the humidity high so it wasn’t really comfortable cycling. Maja, of course, sped up the hill and I slogged along way behind forced to walk the bike at various times as the road grew steeper. Outside Brandon we passed a plaque commemorating the invention of the electric motor there by Thomas Davenport in 1834. I wasn’t aware that Yankee tinkerers were playing around with DC electricity then but I learned tonight that Volta invented a wet battery in the early 1800s.

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But back to the ride.

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The end of the long slog up and now for the 9 mile reward downhill

Once over the gap it was a 9 mile downhill run and after 6 of those miles I found Maja patiently waiting for me and after a brief sandwich we pedaled the rest of the way to the Pumpkin Patch.

An enjoyable dinner tonight at the School Street Bistro so now we are resting for tomorrow’s challenging hill climbs and our entry into New Hampshire. We will spend a rest day on Friday with our friend Camilla and visit the last of the Wright houses on this trip, the Zimmerman House in Manchester, NH. We are both looking forward to completion of our journey and will spend a few days in Maine decompressing before heading back to Phoenix… by air not by bike!

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Vermont’s version of our hay bale motif