Day 14 – Lake McDonald Lodge

0 miles today. That’s right zero, nada! 

Today was total rest and we spent most of the day looking at this fireplace in the lodge. We picked a great day to take a break since it was rainy and 48 degrees all day. It’s been healthy to give our bodies and brains some downtime. There is a certain amount of stress with getting on the road every morning and staying focused on directions, drivers, weather etc. and we were able to turn that off all day. (thanks to Stuart for the iPhone wide angle lens… slowly getting the learning curve down)

There is still no definitive word about the opening of the pass. Everyone we ask has a different opinion and Maja heard that the Park Service doesn’t like to give advance notice about it because there would be cars lined up from East gate to West gate. We think we can get out Friday or Saturday. The relaxation is wonderful and the park beautiful but we are, for now anyway, creatures of the road!

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Lake McDonald Lodge – A National Historic Landmark

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A brief moment of sunshine over the lake

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Maja doing the only hard lifting we did today

Day 13 – Whitefish to Glacier

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40 miles on nice roads and no “confusion.”

Our fantastic hosts, Rita and Chuck, started us off with a hot breakfast and coffee this morning (other Warm Showers hosts take notes!). Tom, who also shared in their hospitality, took off early hoping to get 100 miles to the Canadian border on his Great Divide Race today – from the Mexican border with New Mexico all the way to Banff, Alberta, solo, on Park Service roads.

We casually embarked on a very pleasant, short, touring type ride today to Lake McDonald Lodge in Glacier National Park.

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We like this message and we guess others do too because litter is a lot less in Montana.

The road was mostly clear with the added benefit that drivers around Whitefish are used to dealing with bikes so the fear factor was lessened quite a bit. We did have an unpleasant 2.5 mile stretch through the forest on a rough gravel road where our speed was minimal but after that we sailed into the Park with smiles on our faces.

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Our first views of Lake McDonald.  It doesn’t get better than this!

We planned on taking a rest day tomorrow but now there is uncertainty when Logan Pass over the Continental Divide will be open so at the moment it is unclear when we will leave. There is an alternate route but it’s on the shoulder of Route 2, not something we are excited about. Time, weather, road crews will all tell in then end.

In the meantime, we are happy and very comfortable here in the Lodge.

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One of many roadside crosses–there are way too many of these on the roads. Maybe an indication that a 70 mph speed limit on two lane roads is a bit too high.

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Our view of Lake McDonald from the Lodge

 

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Our home away from home. Tenting at our “warm showers” hosts in Whitefish

Day 12 – Eureka to Whitefish

56 miles today

Good start this morning after a restful night in the Silverado Hotel in Eureka. We back tracked our in-error route yesterday then at the end of town turned off the highway onto a small road that took us through forests … And no traffic.

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After 17 miles or so this pleasant way dumped us back on the highway. It was Sunday so there was not too much traffic and no trucks but the shoulder was narrow.

We had lunch at the post office in Olney and hopped back on the road for the final 20 miles. Sadly, at that point the condition of Route 93 deteriorated badly making the biking very uncomfortable. It seems that everyone in Montana either drives a pick up or is towing some huge camper or trailer causing anxiety every time one passes us particularly if there happens to be oncoming traffic squeezing us all close together.image

There are many crosses planted along the road, simple, small steel crosses painted white on 4′ posts. The speed limit on this rough road was 70 and we wondered if reducing the posted speeds might result in fewer crosses.

To make matters worse, the altitude profile we had seen for today’s ride failed to show several of the hills at the very end of our ride. These are the kinds of challenges that make me sigh and say “Really?”

We arrived mid afternoon in Whitefish and found our hosts. Turns out Rita, our host, knows Maja’s swim coach at Dartmouth.  Small world department.

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We visited our first Frank Lloyd Wright building of the trip, a small office building he designed for a friend of his in 1958. Wright died in ’59 so never saw the completed building. It has seen quite a bit of remodeling but is still known as “The Frank Lloyd Wright Building.”

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Maja’s addendum:

As I look back at our rides, there appear to be two categories:  the “stop and smell the roses rides” and the “get from point A to point B” rides. Today was definitely the latter.  When we started the temps were in the mid 40s, so quite chilly. Luckily, it was partly sunny for the ride, so we warmed up. The ride on the two lane highway with the 70 mph speed limit was white knuckle most of the way. I’m sure the views were very beautiful, be we were totally focused on the road. We were happy to get to Whitefish! Our “warm shower hosts” are great and spoiled us with beer and snacks before we headed into town for dinner. There’s another cyclist staying here: an Aussie who is just about to finish the Mexico to Canada Continental Divide ride all on forest trails/roads. He averages about 100 miles a day. Wow! We also met a really interesting character in Eureka, who I think should be played by Johnny Depp, if there’s ever a movie made about him. He had a coonskin hat (tail and all), and approached us in the parking lot when he saw our bikes.  He had some interesting stories to tell about his architecture as well as fund raising experiences (said he raised $15 million). Very eccentric. We gave him our Bike Wright card.  So our string of meeting interesting people continues. That said, Montana gets demerits from a bike toting pick up driver who made fun of us in Eureka when we asked him for directions to the motel we wanted to stay at and he realized we had biked all the way through town, downhill, only to have to return the same way we came. He certainly takes the “Schadenfreude” award.  Looking forward to a short ride and some rest at Glacier!!!

Day 11 – Libby to Eureka

82 miles today.

That figure is as bit misleading since as we tried our best to leave Libby we got (in the words of our rescuer Fred from yesterday) “slightly confused.” The maps we had and our GPS didn’t sync up so we spent a bit of time and distance figuring things out. Google Maps is not always accurate but as a corroborating source it served us today.  We did finally make it out of town after an egg McMuffin equivalent at the local grocery store and sandwich provisions for later in the day. The road we were on paralleled the river and train tracks (the same tracks on which the long trains ran all last night with air horns blasting and, yes, they kept me awake! Train whistles may be a plaintiff sound in the country music vocabulary and each train is different but they are loud!).

After 15 miles on this very quiet road we crossed the river to take an alternate route around Lake Koocanusa (Kootenai+Canada+USA) recommended to us by some Canadian cyclists we met yesterday.

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Starting the Lake Koocanusa Alternative Route

It was a very wise choice! The road was longer by 4 or 5 miles but totally our own with no lumber trucks and very little other traffic. There were warnings about grizzly sightings but we saw not a single animal of any sort (except for the vultures, crows and Ospreys). The way was hilly, with a monster up hill at the very beginning of our ride as far as the visitor center for the Libby Dam. After that we had numerous ups and downs for 45 miles but, as I said, we had the road to ourselves so could often ride side by side… And actually talk instead of listening for approaching cars and trucks.

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Libby Dam

We’ve settled on a good food plan so integrate breaks with lunch and/or bananas and good old Cliff Bars.

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Lunch al fresca

So… After 45 miles we crossed the river on a new and very wide bridge high above the river. The cross wind was impressive and being more or less alone on that long span with the wind actually singing through the railings was a little surreal. After the bridge we had 16 miles or so to Eureka but, once again, we had to navigate carefully the space on the shoulder between the rumble strips and the loose gravel with cars and trucks whizzing by at 70 miles an hour (not a relaxing bicycle ride).

The last miles into Eureka had no shoulder at all and, as you might expect at the shank end of a long day we were not in a good mental space to deal with the cars.  Anyway, we made it to Eureka and, trusting Apple Maps, road down a long hill all the way through town in hopes of finding our hotel.  Predictably, once we asked at the gas station we were told that the hotel was, in reality, at the upper end of town so, not happy, we biked back up the long hill and checked into a hotel. Only then did we find that this place had no wi-fi!  (Really! I say.) So we rode a little farther and got a room with wi fi at a different place. Gambling is legal in Montana so every little place (hotel, restaurant etc.) has a “casino” – they really only offer one armed bandits and computer poker etc.

We are fed and back in our room and will head to Whitefish tomorrow and will stay with another Warm Showers host.

Day 10 – Clark Fork to Libby, MT

After a good night’s rest we loaded all our panniers (a place for everything …) and biked to the local bakery/cafe for breakfast burritos, sandwiches for lunch and some trail mix. Then we hit the road in a light rain. The forecast was rain all day but that never materialized, it was just clouds and cool temps. We took an alternate route that paralleled the horrible Hwy. 200 and were soon zipping through fields and farms and entered Montana.

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Typical scenery for the day

The last mile or so of this road before it re-joined the 200 was gravel and the joy of zooming downhill was tempered by the washboard road and occasional potholes. Rounding a bend we flew into and out of the town of Heron where we had our first dog chasing incident of the trip… It all ended well when he/she saw we were pretty fast prey! The road continued in gravel and we went up and down for a while until we realized we should have turned left before even getting into Heron. We stood at a Y in the road trying to figure out where we were and how to get back on track – retracing our route back down and up was not appealing. Along the road came a beat up pick up and we flagged the driver down to ask for help since we were “lost.”

“You’re never lost,” he said. “Only slightly confused!” His name is Fred and he lives off the grid at the end of that gravel road. Without any hesitation he cleared space for our bikes in the tool-and-equipment-filled bed of his truck and lashed everything in securely.

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Fred tying in our bikes

We crowded into the cab (it was a mini pick up) and Fred drove us back into Heron where we unloaded at the turn we should have made in the first place. As we thanked him for his kindness he said he wondered why God had made him leave his house at that time today. I guess it was to help us!

The rest of the ride was quiet on a nice road leading to Libby. We stopped outside of town and Maja walked down to the Kootenai Falls (think DiCaprio’s escape over the falls in the Revenant…

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Kootenai Falls as we saw them

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Leo DiCaprio’s character shooting the rapids at Kootenai Falls in The Revenant.

The scene was filmed at Kootenai). We are camping at the Two Bit Campground in Libby and head for Eureka tomorrow and are now in the Mountain time zone.

Musings (2) by Maja

3:1. A free Frank Lloyd Wright phone cover to whoever guesses correctly what the preceding numbers refer to. They will change over the course of our ride. All guesses are welcome.

Washington, Idaho and Montana

As we left Washington and entered Idaho, I was thinking about my impressions of the State. Scenic, green, lumber, lumber and more lumber, lots of bodies of water, and above all friendly. Washington has set a pretty high friendliness bar. We’ll see how future states fare.

Our ride through Idaho yesterday was absolutely everything a bike ride should be. Beautiful weather–not too hot or cold, nor too sunny or cloudy–and gorgeous scenery. It truly is “God’s country” as one gentleman with whom we were speaking called it. We spent the night in Clark’s Ford, a tiny town with a high school, a small country store, a bakery, a restaurant and a lodge. We were totally blown away by the quality of the food in a place we easily could have dismissed as being in the middle of nowhere The bakery used and stocked goods that were organic and local as did the restaurant. Both could easily have made it in a large city. But their owners prefer little Clark’s Ford. This ride is certainly teaching me a thing or two about assumptions.

Outside of the bakery we talked to a couple who retired to the area about 8 years ago and bought some land on the river–enough so that they don’t see any of their neighbors. I imagine that he was about 75 or so. His parents were German and he grew up in CA speaking German and still did a bit. We talked a while about our common ancestry and how his uncle had been captured by the Russians during WW II and then escaped and surrendered to the Americans, just like mine. He and his wife provide the eggs used by the bakery. They were a lot of fun to talk to (the couple, not the eggs). These short conversations we are having with people we meet on the road are some of the highlights of our trip.

Today we entered Montana after about 6 miles of riding and then continued for another 55 or so. We had decided to take an alternate route that got us off the busy two-lane highway with zero shoulders and blind turns for at least a little while. We ended up riding on a dirt road into nowhere because we missed our turn back onto the highway and got lost. Luckily for us, we managed to flag down a vehicle that happened past and the driver offered to take us back to where we should have been. We happily accepted his offer! During the ride he told us that he had moved here 7 years ago when his wife passed away. She had suffered from heart problems that cost them over half a million dollars in medical expenses. They weren’t insured because he had just started a new business and so they had to declare bankruptcy. After her death, he moved back to Montana and started driving for the oil companies. He has now retired, lives in a little cabin in the woods that is off grid (solar and generator) does odd jobs and is active in his church. If we had seen this guy on the street, we could easily have thought that he was homeless. And yet he was the salt of the earth, well-read, and interesting to talk to. And of course, helpful and friendly. Another lesson in judging a book by its cover.

Physical Fitness

On a different note, many of you are probably wondering about how we’re doing physically. A ride like this certainly has an impact on the body. First and foremost, is the posterior. 6-12 hours of riding each day takes a toll. Hot days generate painful rashes. Other days just result in pain, period. There’s nothing really to be done about it. I have pretty constant pain in one of my shoulders. Sometimes better, sometimes worse. I imagine that this isn’t going to get any better over the course of the ride. Charles is having some wrist problems that have resulted in numbness in some of his fingers. But he’s figured out that if he moves his hands around a lot, the numbness improves, so the past few days have been better. His knees are holding up. All in all, we’re doing fine. Ibuprofen is the name of the game.

Mental Fitness

You may also be asking yourself what we think about as we ride for hours and hours on end. In fact, as I’ve been riding, I ask myself that as well. It’s funny how the mind just empties… I enjoy the beauty of the land through which we’re riding, I read names on mailboxes and think of people I’ve known with the same names. I think about how many miles we’ve ridden and how many more are to come and are they flat or hilly. I think a lot about the cars and trucks that are passing us–are they too close, how fast they’re driving, how big they are, and what they’re transporting. I think about Charles and how he’s doing and whether he’s close or further behind. And finally, I think an awful lot about what the next meal will be and when it will be eaten. But a lot of the time, I don’t really think about anything at all. I just enjoy the ride.