Another Fine Rest Day

We’ll get back on the road tomorrow I promise but we’ve needed these two days to recharge. First of all and most importantly, thanks to our friends Craig and Steve for putting us up, feeding us and allowing us to take a breather in their fabulous house. They helped us get our bikes to the One on One bike shop downtown for overhauls so our wheels are as good as new and ready to roll. Maja’s bike needed a new rear tire, the cables on both bikes needed tightening and both chains were replaced.  Thanks to Gene and crew for giving the Surlys the TLC they needed.  We feel confident they are up to the task of getting us to Bar Harbor.

This afternoon we reconnected with our friends Kip and Cindy we knew originally in Belgium – old home week – for a lunch full of old stories and laughter! This evening we’ll load up our panniers and make sure all is shipshape.

This morning Steve Sikora showed us the Willey House, an unforgettable experience of a meticulously restored and very important 1934 Wright house. I’ll write more about that in a separate blog.

“Midway along life’s journey…”

Apologies to Dante for the lede.

We are luxuriating in a couple of day’s R and R at our friends Steve and Craig’s amazing house on not one but two lakes. It was very nice to wake up “normally” with a few moments of sleepy headedness instead of having to come around by pedaling up a steep hill. We are, more or less, half way through our trek to Bar Harbor. I say “more or less” since we are now deviating from the ACA route for a swing down through Wisconsin to Spring Green and Taliesin. We’ll ride along the Mississippi to Lacrosse then angle east to get to Wright’s Wisconsin home passing through the town of his birth, Richland Center, along a part of the newly designated Frank Lloyd Wright Trail. From there we will head northwest across Wisconsin and eventually reconnect with the mapped route around the north side of Lake Michigan and into the Upper Peninsula of Michigan. Our detour to Taliesin will add about 180 miles to our trip so I’m not sure where we stand on eventual total mileage.

There has never been a three month period in my life where I have been so totally focused on one goal, one project. I have to confess that there were days early on when the task seemed daunting, as in “how can I keep pedaling day after day for three months.”  The first climbs up the Cascades did little to buoy my confidence but once over the Continental Divide, I felt like this was something we could do. Certainly every day (one might say every hour) presents its mini challenges in terms of hills, wind, maybe rain but the little lesson I learn almost daily is “one mile at a time.” I think we both break down the day’s ride into segments and check the box for that segment when we get there and then it’s on to the next one, the next segment. Sometimes I break the total mileage goal into percentages and tell myself, “There’s 2% finished.” Or figure out how many minutes at a given speed each mile will take then, my mind occupied on the math, suddenly I find we’re half way or almost done.

A lot of our riding has been in file since, except for occasional stretches of deserted highway or on the bike trail, there is no room to ride side by side. Riding one behind the other is not conducive to conversation so we tend to store up comments or topics until break time or until we can ride next to each other. There always is that great moment when one of us will announce, “Half way there” or “Ten more miles to go” and those declarations unfailingly boost my spirits.

I’ve found that my mind wanders often to music: I spent a lot of idle brain power the other day thinking that I finally understood how Charlie Parker sculpted “Yardbird Suite.” And before that it was hearing in my head the multiple signatures of a Mahavishnu Orchestra piece.  None of this is significant in the long run but often solves mysteries I never had the opportunity to visualize clearly. Of course the real danger in all this is that preoccupied, I am not paying 100% attention to the road and have actually run into Maja at least twice!

Singing the praises of warm showers

18:6  OK.  You all have not been guessing what these numbers mean. So I’m going to start giving you hints.  Remember, the winner gets a Frank Lloyd Wright design phone cover.

Hint # 1:  the numbers compare two different things.  They increase more rapidly in larger towns/cities.

I have been asked by some to provide a little more info on our Warm Showers hosts and experiences so here goes (sorry, no great photos).

As you know from our previous postings, our warm showers experiences have been 100% positive from a purely people perspective.  Our hosts have been welcoming, generous and warm.  So it will come as no surprise that most of them are in service related jobs, or were before they retired.  Hosts have included teachers, social workers (addiction, child welfare, parental instruction), physicians, hospital technicians, government workers (Federal, State and City).  In fact, we have had only one host that hasn’t fit into the service-related category in some way.  Many are active Christians and believe strongly in being generous towards others.  Most, but not all, had some level of cycling experience.

Our routine when we arrive is to be shown our room (we spent the night in a tent at one warm showers location) where we drop our gear.  We then take a shower, which makes us feel human again, and if we need to, do a laundry.  We then get together with our hosts to get acquainted and then generally have dinner together.  Sometimes we help.  Most often we are ordered to just relax.  Dinners have been without exception fabulous!  Pasta is generally the meal of preference, but we have had chili, bento boxes, and chicken with quinoa (which we actually fixed for one of our hosts who had had a long day).  We tend to turn in pretty early and get up at 6 am to be on the road by 7 am.  Our hosts have also treated us to yummy breakfasts–often including pancakes!  I am a pancake convert.  At home I eat oatmeal pretty much every day for breakfast but have only had oatmeal once since we’ve been on our journey.

Homes have ranged from farm houses, to lake houses, to apartments, to subdivision homes, to city homes, to houses in the middle of nowhere.  Everyone of them has been a unique slice of America and has offered us insights into the American experience.

Our dinner conversations have been the best part of our warm shower travels.  We have learned so much!

Three of our hosts have been involved in animal husbandry.  We could have talked about that all day long.  John and Mary raised Angus cattle, principally to sell the bulls and calves or to use the Bulls as breed stock. The day we were there, they had just finished the long and arduous process of artificially inseminating their cows.  Once that was done, they would also cover the cows with visits from live bulls, just to improve the chances of insemination.  The plan is that cows will give birth more or less at the same time, making life very hectic around calving time, but also improving predictability.  Insemination is done in the field with the cattle being rounded up on horseback and herded into enclosures. Andrew and Gretchen’s family raise turkeys and have done so for generations.  We had no idea that Minnesota is one of the biggest turkey states in the country.  They also focus on selling the offspring, rather than the meat.  In this case, they sell fertilized eggs and Gretchen spent some time for a couple of years gathering eggs from the nests, which involves lifting the turkeys off their nests and reaching in for the eggs.  There are several shifts of egg thieves every day and thousands of birds.  Amazing and incredibly hard work, I imagine.  Lifting one turkey from the freezer to the counter is about all I can handle!  And Jason’s family has been raising bees for five generations.  If they didn’t move the bees from California, where they pollinate almond trees, to North Dakota every year, they would have to feed the bees because there’s not enough pollen in California during the summer for the bees to survive.   Jason also said that his grandfather didn’t have to worry about all the diseases and hive collapse that bee keepers face today.  They lose about 50% of their hives every year, but they have enough hives that they can split to make up for the loss.  Smaller bee keepers have a much more difficult time.  We tasted some of their product, and it was yummy!

Bonnie and her husband Jeff have opened their house to others for years.  They live in an area that, until recently, had a baseball team that played in the league for college players to improve their skills during the summer–like the Cape Cod league and they have housed numerous players over the years.  Consequently, they know and have kept in touch with several pro baseball players.  Keeping in touch includes calling them for every home run and sending them home made chocolate chip cookies every year on their birthdays. Unfortunately, the team recently went belly up, but the upside for us was that Bonnie and Jeff are now warm showers hosts to fill some of the void. They also own a lakeside resort in Minnesota that they run on the honor system. You leave a check to cover your stay when you leave. Isn’t that wonderful? And they’ve never had a problem.

Ron and Joyce both had very challenging and rewarding careers in working with drug addicts and child services. They spent the evening after dinner with us driving us around Bismarck and being incredible tour guides. This was way above and beyond, but clearly they also enjoyed it so we didn’t feel too guilty. It was so nice to see things that we normally would not have from our bikes and to do it from the comfort of a car.

Joel was a man after Charles’ heart–a baseball fanatic, albeit a Cubs fan. So he and Charles talked for hours while I went downstairs and read. A rewarding evening for all involved 😉.

And of course we have always learned about the local environment, politics, and life in general.

I could go on and on, but won’t bore you. We can’t wait to get back home and become hosts ourselves. Phoenix is on the Southern cross-country route, so we’re hoping to be able to reciprocate in some small way for all of the hospitality we’ve received. If you’re interest, search for warm showers and you’ll find everything you need to know.

 

Day 38 – St. Cloud to Golden Valley (Minneapolis)

57 miles. Nice tail wind following the Mississippi into Minneapolis

After a great dinner and night’s sleep we got away early. John was kind enough to hop on his bike and guide us out of town and on our way.  Several days ago we met a cyclist from Minnesota who advised us that the official American Cycling maps take a big semi circle around Minneapolis and bring you in from the east and he suggested staying on the rail to trails into St. Cloud and into Minneapolis from the west. This change saved at least a day on our trek if not two and many miles.

So, thanks to John we got on our route quickly and enjoyed a full day of tail winds. His directions were turn perfect and Susan’s cookies kept us energized til we reached our rendezvous point where our friend Steve from Paradise Valley (he and Craig also have a fantastic house in the Golden Valley part of Minneapolis) met us. Like a well coordinated military maneuver, Steve loaded our bikes onto the car and drove us downtown to the One on One bike shop recommended by Surly, the manufacturer of our bikes, for a mid tour overhaul.

We are back at Steve and Craig’s and will luxuriate for a two day rest!  Woo!

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Hard at work on the blog!

 

Day 37 – Garfield to St. Cloud

74 miles. All but a few on the Lake Wobegon bike trail.

I was never a big fan of The Prairie Home Companion but if the legacy is this bike path (another rail to trail initiative) then that’s OK by me. Most of the route had been fairly recently resurfaced so the going was very smooth. The wind was against us but since the bike path is sheltered we made good time.

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Bonnie had sent us off with a good breakfast, lunch sandwiches and cookies! We stopped for lunch at the picnic tables of a community center in St. Joseph and there was a family sitting at another bench with an extension cord plugged into the exterior outlet charging their cell phones so we felt the center was an active hub in the community!

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I don’t think this tandem is going anywhere soon.

The path ends on the southern side of St. Joseph and we had another 7 miles to go back on a busy 4 lane road.  We clearly had grown accustomed to the peace and quiet of the paths because the truck noise was unnerving.  Certainly we had experienced worse conditions on the small roads in Montana and North Dakota but the contrast between the smooth sailing of the last two days with the sudden immersion into traffic unsettled us… but we pushed on.

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This poor old thing had been worked hard in its day and now left to rust. We’ve seen many relics like this tucked away in the corners of fields.

John and Susan were our warm showers hosts and they welcomed us in. After showers and re cycling we had a great dinner of “American Bento Box.” Susan helps a friend whose restaurant is selling her version of the bento box with rice, quinoa, chicken, red meat, veggies, freshly chopped ginger all topped with various sauces. Our meal was essentially leftovers from the weekly market the night before so it may have been the best and most nutritious free meal we’ve had.

Two paths leading into an infinite future!!

Day 36 – Pelican Rapids to Garfield

72 miles. Finally reached the rail to trail part of the trip.

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This is reputed to be the largest pelican in the world nested by the river with Pelican Rapids in the background.

We had a great night in Pelican Rapids, even made dinner for our host Gretchen and learned how their little town has changed over the past few years.  Gretchen and her husband Andrew not only run the store and the hot dog and ice cream but also have a florist business, kayak and canoe rental, have planted hops and a few other enterprises.

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Lake after lake after lake into the distance.

Got an early start complete with a hearty McDonald’s breakfast and rode the very hilly first part of the day’s trek to Fergus Falls where, with difficulty, we finally found the Central Lakes Trail, a paved former rail line that will take us most of the way to St. Cloud. It is definitely nice riding on the path and not worrying about traffic or rumble strips but the down side is that we don’t get to see a lot of the surrounding country side since the trail is mostly wooded on both sides.  But the good outweighs the bad in this case so we made haste to another warm showers hosts, Bonnie and Jeff,  in a beautiful house on Lake Lida. As we have discovered, this whole 6 degrees of separation is a myth, the truth is we are separated by only 2 or 3 degrees! Bonnie and Jeff’s son is starting graduate school soon at ASU in Tempe, Jeff grew up in a small town in central Missouri near where my family is from, his grandfather had a medical practice in Webster Groves and their daughter is graduating from Northwestern med school.

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Too bad we don’t have time to enjoy our hosts’ pier and lake.

Tomorrow we get back on the Central Lakes Trail and will connect with (wait for it) The Lake Wobegon Trail. The last part of the ride today was on a washboard dirt road and Bonnie has volunteered to drive us back to the trail just to give us a break from the jolting ride back tomorrow.

Day 35 – Cormorant to Pelican Rapids

11 whole miles! Recovery day for mind and body.

We slept in, found our hotel didn’t serve breakfast so we just lounged until check out time. Given the short, short day in store, we weren’t rushed at all.

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Our bikes were not crushed as the sign warns.

We are in a nice apartment owned by our Warm Showers hosts, Andrew and Gretchen. 100% improvement over our last experience! They own a gift shop and hot dog and ice cream shop on the ground floor. Very nice folks. We are cooking dinner tonight.

Tomorrow we head through Fergus Falls and join the rail to trail path so it’s back on the road!

Frank Lloyd Wright

As we’ve been biking and reading some of the historic markers along the roads, I’ve been thinking about how old Frank Lloyd Wright was during these events and how he might have thought about them as a child or young adult.  He was born on June 8, 1867 and we and lots of other organizations and institutions, including MOMA, will be celebrating his 150th birthday next year. It was fun to try to put myself in his shoes and imagine what I would have thought about some of the following events at his age. Newsworthy events included battles between Native Americans and US troops and the subsequent promises of reservations, discoveries of gold, the expansion of the railroad into and across western states and statehood.

We haven’t seen a lot of FLW designed structures so far, but hope to see the Willey House in Minneapolis next week and will be biking to Taliesin in Spring Green Wisconsin toward the middle of the month.  There’s no doubt that the times in which FLW was living influenced his thinking about buildings and architecture and I look forward to visiting his works with a new perspective gained from our ride.

WASHINGTON

  • Washington statehood in 1889.  FLW was 22 years old.  All in all, FLW witnessed the creation of 12 states during his lifetime, from Colorado to Alaska.  His death preceded Hawaii’s statehood by 4 months.
  • Klondike Gold Rush in 1897-99.  FLW was in his early 30s and was probably too well established by that time to be tempted.  But who knows?

IDAHO

  • Population. When FLW was 3, Idaho’s population was 18,999 and there was a mini gold rush going on.
  • 1870s.  Throughout the 1870s, when FLW was a boy, numerous Indian Reservations were established in Idaho and the railroad first entered the state, a momentous occasion in any of the western states’ histories.
  • Statehood.  Of the four states we’ve biked through to date, Idaho was the last to become a state in 1890.

MONTANA

  • Yellowstone.  In 1872, when FLW was just 5, Congress created Yellowstone National Park.
  • Chief Joseph and the Nez Perce Indians retreated across Montana in 1877 after their surrender at Bear’s Paw Mountain.
  • Railroad.  The railroad entered Montana in 1880.
  • Statehood.  On Nov. 8, 1889, Montana became the country’s 41st state.

NORTH DAKOTA

  • Custer’s last stand on June 25, 1876.  FLW would have just turned 9, an age when boys and girls were playing Cowboys and Indians when I was growing up.  At age 70 he was finding Native American petroglyphs at Taliesin West and giving them prominence in his new home in Scottsdale, Arizona.
  • Statehood in 1889.  North Dakota entered the Union as a State on Nov. 2, 1889 when FLW was 22.  In the intervening years the State had welcomed thousands of homesteaders and the railroad, which was a constant companion during our ride, entered the state.

 

The truth, the whole truth and nothing but the truth

HAPPY FOURTH OF JULY TO ONE AND ALL!

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Yesterday was possibly the most uncomfortable day of our whole trip and it had nothing to do with our biking.  As you know from previous blogs, our Warm Shower stays have been some of our best experiences on our trip.  Our hosts have been welcoming, interesting and interested, friendly, informative and the places in which we have stayed have been more than acceptable.

Yesterday, unfortunately, was the exception.  We rode into Moorhouse, MN expecting to spend yesterday night and the night of the 4th with warm shower hosts–enjoying what we hoped was going to be a well deserved and fun day off on the Fourth of July.  We arrived at the home of our hosts, who were very welcoming although we later realized not terribly interested.  It seems they make a habit of inviting people they don’t know or barely know into their home.  The abode was all but unlivable–perhaps the inevitable result of housing 5 cats, 3 dogs and 5 humans in a small space.  We were allocated a small area–to call it a room is to glorify it– in an unfinished and moldy basement. The shower and toilet there hadn’t been cleaned in months even though an acquaintance who was living in an RV in their driveway has been using the facilities. The washing machine emptied onto the floor.  The room we were in was filthy and claustrophobic as was the rest of the house–dirty dishes, dirty counters, dirty bathroom, etc.  We should have just turned around and walked out, but we decided to grin and bear it because we didn’t want to offend our hosts, but did shorten our stay and left this morning.  At about 1:30 am, when I woke up feeling as though I couldn’t breath, I almost woke Charles up to suggest that we just leave.  It was truly an uncomfortable situation.  It was an adventure of a sort, but one we hope not to repeat.

It was wonderful to get out this morning and ride in the fresh air and clean countryside.  Tomorrow will be a very short ride–16 miles or so–and we hope that today’s short ride and tomorrow’s will equate to a day off.

Onward and upward!

Day 34 – Moorhead to Cormorant

38 miles. This was to be our rest day so we weren’t too ambitious. July 4.

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We are patriotic.

Got a bit of a late start today from Moorhead and after getting our breakfast and a sandwich for lunch at the grocery store, we headed southeast toward some of Minnesota’s famed lakes.

The road was mostly flat with a head wind and when we turned to the east the quartering breeze gave us a little boost. There again was very little traffic but since we saw a highway patrolman pull someone over right in front of us, we made the effort to stay on the shoulder and stay legal. The miles clicked by to the 28 mile marker and then we got into some hills again. Speaking of hills, a few days ago I totaled all the climbing we have done so far on our trip and found that we have easily summited Mt. Everest – over 45,000 feet of climbs so far. And we don’t even have Sherpas!

We interrupted our ride a couple of times to consult with Brady whose Jeep has broken down in Las Vegas. He and a friend had driven from LA to Phoenix to the Grand Canyon and then to Vegas over the long weekend. Leaving Joshua Tree National Monument they ran out of gas and were lucky enough to quickly find a tow truck with a few gallons of gas so they could limp into a station. Unfortunately, by running the tank to empty, all the sludge and debris from 22 years got into the fuel system and by the time they got to Vegas, the car would sputter to a stop every dozen miles of so. Nothing that dollars can’t fix so in the end, his Jeep will have a new fuel system from clean tank to new pump, filter and injectors. What happens in Vegas ….

For a couple of miles on the road there were shoes of every description nailed to the fence posts.

Nearing our goal, The Cormorant Inn, we nearly passed by a very inviting looking sandwich shop and cafe, one of the nicest we’ve seen on our trip so far. We’ve subsisted on PB&J  and gas station pre made sandwiches so seeing this place, we could almost hear the angels sing! Great food and smoothies! As we sat we were approached by a woman who asked where we were biking from and to (many folks are curious about our trek and we’re more than willing to tell them and occasionally proselytize about Frank Lloyd Wright). In this case we also spread a little of the Warm Showers gospel – 11 years ago this woman had let two cross country cyclists in their teens camp overnight in her front yard and was very impressed with the young men. A little while ago, one of the guys came back through Comorant and visited her and she was still excited about the whole thing.

While we were eating, three more cross country cyclists came in, father and his two early 20’s kids.  They are going as far as Ticonderoga, NY, since his daughter is starting  med school in August and his son starting biz school. They had biked across North Dakota all on the Interstate so had made very good time and looked way too neat and clean (as compared to our somewhat grubby appearances).

We have decided to treat today and tomorrow (both light days) as one rest day. Once we hit the rail to trail path we’ll put in more miles as we aim to get to Minneapolis on Friday.

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Shoes climbing the telephone pole all by themselves!