Day 67 – Fair Haven to Redfield

61 miles. A lot of hills – and more to come.

We got away early this morning after our breakfast of sandwiches kindly bought for us yesterday by Ric and Anke. The first hill attacked us immediately and it was a roller coaster from there on.

Maja was very speedy today (or maybe it was I who was very slow – ya think?) so we spent a lot of the day barely in sight of each other except for breaks and map checks.

The day had little of significance to offer other than the challenge of the hills but believe it or not, it was sort of a pleasant ride weather wise (overcast with the wind at our backs for long stretches) and we rolled into our little hotel in Redfield – Otter Limits and The Nook. When I called yesterday to make the reservation I told the owner we would be there around 2:30 so when we pulled up at 1:30 he said I was too early and we had to go back! Score one for the sense of humor.

There is little in the way of an option for dining so we will eat right here and head off tomorrow for Old Forge on a route that promised more of the old climb and coast routine.

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Hops. Thanks to the growth of micro brewing there is an increasing demand for locally grown hops.

Update to yesterday’s ride

We have finished for the day and now I have the energy to catch up and post yesterday’s adventure.

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Our last piece of flat riding for the rest of our trip

We started from Rochester on paved sections of the Erie Canal bike path that changed to crushed limestone. We knew we had to leave the path in Palmyra so kept our eyes open for our turn and we once again, reluctantly, were back in the real world of traffic, shoulders and hills!

We stopped for some water at a vegetable stand as a light rain began and the minute we pulled out it started pouring. We put on our rain gear but sought shelter on someone’s front porch! After the rain we were back on the road.

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Heavy rain drove us to find shelter

Our route took us north to the shore of Lake Ontario at Pultneyville where we learned of another battle/skirmish from the War of 1812.

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The Battle of Pultneyville park

From there we took the coast road that never really got us next to the shore. Contrary to what the woman at the vegetable stand said, the Lake Road was anything but flat so we got a glimpse of what our lives will be like for the remainder of our trek – up and down and up and down all the way to Bar Harbor.

Because we had stopped a little short of our intended overnight stop to take advantage of the Rochester hotel’s nearness to the canal, we had an additional and painful extra 8 miles tacked on to getting us to Fair Haven.

Maja’s sister, Anke, and family drove up from Ithaca and picked us up at the hotel to drive us to dinner. We are very glad they were kind enough to meet us since there was no place remotely close to the hotel for us to eat! After a very enjoyable dinner, as you learned from yesterday’s abbreviated post, we crashed.

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Our dining view at The Pleasant Beach hotel.

Day 66 – Rochester to Fair Haven

79 miles. A few miles too far today.

We had it all today – paved trail, gravel trail, roads, clouds, torrential rain, blistering sun, heat, tail winds, head winds, you name it! The stage took longer than we thought and after a very nice dinner with Maja’s sister Anke and most of her family (Ric, Marin and Rory) we are toasted and too tired to post. Sorry but we’ll catch up tomorrow from the big city of Redfield, NY.

We have a winner!

Someone has guessed correctly what I was counting and has won a Frank Lloyd Wright design cell phone cover. I was, indeed, comparing the number of McDonald’s to Burger Kings. My winner was surprised by the low number of both, as was I, but we have to remember that we were riding through mostly small towns. The places that had a Burger King almost always had a McDonald’s nearby, but many towns could obviously only support one fast food burger joint, and in those cases they had a McDonald’s, proving the value of incumbency. I know that you will be disappointed to read this, but since we have a winner, I will stop counting. Thanks to all of you who joined in the fun!

As you all know, we have rarely been rained on. The parched look of western NY is testament to the lack of rain. Yards are brown, corn is stunted and dry and soybean plants are also significantly smaller than ones we’ve passed across other states. While we can’t complain about staying dry on our rides, we do feel bad about the farmers whose livelihood is suffering. Today as we were cycling along the Erie Canal, many farmers were pumping water out of the canal to irrigate their fields. We don’t know if this is normal or something that is just done when Mother Nature doesn’t do her bit to keep the crops watered.

Speaking of water, we have been drinking a ton over the course of the last few days as the heat wave has finally caught up to us. It has been hot and humid. And today add dusty to the list since we were riding on crushed limestone all day along the Canal. Our bikes, bags, etc. are gray with dust. We will have more of the same tomorrow until we turn off the canal and head toward Lake Superior, which we hope will be a bit cooler.

Today I made our reservations at a Bed and Breakfast near Bar Harbor, so the end of our adventure is nearing. We have only 13 more days with bums on saddles and 14 more days total until we reach our destination. As we looked at the map to plan our final days, we wonder why the American Cycling Association decided to end its Northern Tier Route in Bar Harbor since we bike north along the coast of Maine for a couple hundred miles before we get there. Charles and I discussed whether we should call it quits when we reach the Maine coast, but decided to soldier on. After all, what’s a couple hundred more miles? and we wouldn’t want to be accused of false advertising! 😇 So, with that said, we are now looking at riding into Bar Harbor on August 18 and flying back to Arizona around the 25th. Woohoo!

Day 65 – Lockport to Rochester

61 miles. “… On the Erie Canal”

That song did not stick in my head today. The one that did, probably since tomorrow will be our third Great Lake shore ride, is Gordon Lightfoot’s “The Wreck of the Edmund Fitzgerald.” “And farther below Lake Ontario takes in what Lake Erie can send her.” (One would have thought that lyric might have clued me in about which direction the Niagara River flows over the Falls – see yesterday’s post)

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The Erie Canal and bike path

We coasted onto the Erie Canal bike path after only a mile or so on Lockport’s streets and stayed on it the entire day. The first half mile was paved and the balance was crushed limestone but in great shape so we didn’t sacrifice any speed. Over the next 60 miles or so we only saw one lock and that one was in Lockport.

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The lock in Lockport as we cycled away

For that matter we only saw one boat! We read that after many years of only sports boating traffic, some companies are now shipping freight and goods again on the canal again.

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Only one boat sighted all day… And no mules pulling her

It’s not hard to envision the impact the canal had on American Westward expansion. By linking the Hudson River with Lake Erie, trade and passenger traffic in both directions led to a vibrant market and competing and expanding canals and rail lines.

It was a hot day today and we stopped in Brockport for water then in Spencerville for lunch and finally to our hotel only a block from the canal.

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Downtown Brockport where we stopped in a bar for ice water

Tomorrow we have a few more hours on the canal then turn north toward Lake Ontario.

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Us sporting our new Darwin Martin T-Shirts! Thanks, Mary.

 

Day 64 – Buffalo to Lockport (Erie Canal)

58 miles. Via the Canadian side of Niagara Falls.(“Slowly I turned. Step by step …”)

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Another “ersatz” Wright building, the Fontana Boathouse along the Niagara River in Buffalo. Wright designed it in 1905 to be built at the University of Wisconsin and this was eventually built in Buffalo in 2007

We backtracked a little this morning to get back on the Canadian side since we had heard that the bike path up to Niagara Falls was better on that side and, more importantly, the falls are prettier on the Canadian side. The bike path was a little twisty and turney and not in that great shape but it was quiet and shaded. Along the way we passed the site of the Battle of Chippawa marking the first “invasion” of American troops into Canada to fight the British in the War of 1812.

After learning how the “invaders” were ultimately driven back across the river, we continued to the Falls. I have to admit that for my entire life I thought that the Niagara River flowed over the Falls and emptied into Lake Erie. Wrong!! Learn something every day, eh?

The falls are spectacular and we joined a throng of tourists from all over the world as we got soaked by the spray and posed for the obligatory photo.

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Horseshoe Falls. The spray is visible from several miles away. The view from the American side is on the edge of the falls looking down.

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Our obligatory photo with American Falls in the background

Pressing on after that we rode north and crossed back over into the US eventually finding our way to Lockport, near the eastern terminus of the Erie Canal along which we will be riding for the next couple of days.

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We rode under the Rainbow Bridge and thought this looked very cathedral like.

 

Darwin Martin House Part 2

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One of a dozen or so different leaded glass designs Wright used. Actually this window is a “place keeper” of thin, clear plastic while the new leaded glass window is being made.

I crashed last night before I could do this magnificent house justice so I’ll try to do better today before I write our blog. The scale of the details that Wright specified in the Martin House is overwhelming and for me that makes this house his boldest Prairie house statement. I know from my own experience that one does not often pair with a client who has the temperament and means to give the architect free rein but Darwin Martin seemed to approach that ideal. To have been witness to the meetings between Martin and Wright would have been to watch Wright in full and glorious flight as he described his ideas from all altitudes, from the 30,000 foot view of the entire project down to the 1 foot or lower details. Martin allowed Wright to bring his full genius to bear and introduced him to other Buffalo clients like the Larkin Company where he was able to express his ideas of how a business should be organized and streamlined hierarchically. Sadly the Larkin Building does not exist now except in photos.

One of the concepts that Wright innovated at the Martin house that had no equivalent at the time was exploding the box of the house freeing up an interior space with few walls or divisions between living areas and bringing the supporting structure into the interior allowing the exterior walls to be fenestrated to a degree never seen before. Using leaded glass designs he created rows of multi-colored windows that brought light and color inside this new “exploded box” bringing exterior and interior areas together.

I could go on with my admiration of the Martin House and the level of quality of its restoration but others have studied the house and written more eloquently about it so I encourage you to start with a Google search and include as many images as you can pull up. Here are a few more of ours from yesterday.

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The view from the main house down the pergolas to the conservatory. The glass in the floor allows light from the lower level to softly light the path at night.

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This light is a manifestation of Wright’s desire to design the entire house environment

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Exterior space outside the living room that becomes one with the interior space

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Looking back to the pergola from the conservatory

 

 

Day 63 – Dunnville to Buffalo

48 miles. Many on the Friendship Trail Bike Path

We slept in a bit and managed to get away from Dunnville around 8. We got “temporarily confused” again since there are two different highways there both numbered “3” – one is a county road and the other a provincial highway. We managed to get it figured out and rode along the coast on relatively quiet roads.

After 24 miles we got to Port Colborne and hooked up with the Friendship Trail, paved all the way to the Peace Bridge back to the good old USA. Among the way we passed the former site of the Erie Beach Hotel. W.E.B DuBois organized the founding meeting of the Niagara Movement there as a counter to what he considered Booker T. Washington‘s more moderate approach to the fight for black civil rights.

We had to bike across the bridge that was totally jammed up with traffic in both directions! We passed a whole line of cars and trucks but then had to wait for the immigration agent to let us in for the interview. Eventually we made it through and were back on the streets of the Buffalo waterfront.

We spent the night with a former Dartmouth classmate of Maja’s who had reached out to us when she heard about our ride through the alumni magazine’s class notes.  We had a wonderful time catching up with her and meeting two of her four kids.

Buffalo at one point (around the end of the 19th century) was a very prosperous shipping and manufacturing center but like most rust belt cities has fallen on harder times. It boasts a neighborhood and park designed by Frederick Law Olmstead and buildings by Wright, Sullivan, Richardson and Saarinen. And the target of our visit today was the Darwin Martin complex.

We met Mary Roberts, the Executive Director of the Martin House Restoration Corporation, who gave us an in depth look at the massive effort involved with the organization and carrying out of the beautiful renovations. The house is Wright’s largest and most complex Prairie Style design from the early 1900s and was conceived as a family compound. He utilized many innovative concepts in both its design and construction.

I’ll include a few of our photos here and will post more tomorrow but for a better understanding of the house’s history and more pics you should start at these entries and go in deeper from there:

 

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Wright’s leaded glass panels bring a kaleidoscope of color in the house from the outside as well as from electric lighting 

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The view down the long pergola completely and absolutely faithfully rebuilt

 

This beautiful built-in has two doors that open to reveal bookshelves and then the bookshelves open to more shelves behind them.

🎶Make new friends, but keep the old

One is silver and the other’s gold.🎶 

We have been meeting lots of kind, interesting and engaging people on our trip, but there’s nothing like being with old friends. Our time in Birmingham, MI with our good friends Foley and Marion was fantastic, albeit too short and they get 5+ ⭐️s for their “warm showers” 🙃 hosting. Marion and her son Malcolm picked us up at the Marine City ferry, an hour from their home. On the way back to their house, Marion organized and then later generously treated us to two of the best massages we’ve ever had. She then chauffeured us around on various errands before cooking a wonderful salmon dinner that really hit the spot. Our next day was full viewing Frank Lloyd Wright homes, touring around some of the areas of Detroit that are in full revival, having lunch and going back home for a well deserved nap. That night, we were joined by more friends and three bottles of champagne and several bottles of wine later, we hit the sack. The next day, after a full and filling breakfast, Marion and Foley drove us back to Marine City for the ferry ride to Canada. It was so wonderful being around friends that are really family and getting back to our trip well fortified emotionally and physically. We are very lucky and thankful to have such great “old” friends. The only black mark against them was that we had so much fun over the dinners, wines and champagnes that we never had the energy for the long promised malts at their favorite ice cream shoppe. Something to look forward to for the next visit.

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Ending our fun time with the Jones’s at the Marine City Ferry landing.

We will be spending tomorrow night with a college classmate, which I’m looking forward to, and will also catch up with some more of our oldest and best friends from Virginia who now have a summer place in Hanover, NH a week or so from now. Those visits combined with our stay with our good friends from Paradise Valley, Craig and Steve, at their home in Golden Valley, MN have made this trip even more special than it would have normally been.

Day 62 – Port Burwell to Dunville

76 miles. Last full day in Canada

First, I neglected a few things over the past few days. Our first day in Ontario we passed the home of Josiah Henson whose autobiography was the inspiration for Harriet Beecher Stowe’s “Uncle Tom’s Cabin.” It was also the site of the Dawn Settlement, a community for escaped slaves, and one of the last stops on the Underground Railroad. The site was a mile or so off our route so we did not stop and we intend someday to go back and visit the place.

We also saw these two houses on that first day in Ontario:

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This abandoned and overgrown farm house must be hiding many secrets!

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This is not a Wright house but sure bears some of his signature elements

Jeff and Marion, our Airbnb hosts last night, took us to a neighbors house to watch a very impressive fireworks display.

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The sky above Port Burwell was alive with color before they set off the fireworks

This morning they were kind enough to get up early and feed us royally. Thanks to their kindness we were able to get on the road at 7 AM toward Dunnville.

Our route was on local and provincial roads with very little traffic. We saw many more windmills and a sign that read: “Stop the most corrupt and wasteful scam ever to be.” Strong words!

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Ontario wines on the vine

We rode through many small towns and had a few more ups and downs than we had anticipated but Maja noticed a short cut that took us away from the coastal roads and saved us some time getting to our destination.

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Lake Erie

Entering Dunnville we crossed the Grand River and saw this outflow from the dam.

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Tomorrow we head to Buffalo.