Post ride FAQs

We are still enjoying ourselves and our “recovery” here in Maine and are now at the Spruce Point Inn in Boothbay Harbor. This morning was spent kayaking and the afternoon on a whale watch boat trip so we are certainly not stressed! Some questions we’d like to answer about our ride and if you have any of your own, please post them in the “comment” tab and we’ll answer them.

How many miles a day did we ride?

We were on our bikes 71 of the 79 days for a total of 4230 miles which works out to 59.57 miles per day and averaged between 11 and 12 miles per hour. Our longest mileage was the wind-aided day in Montana, 104 miles, and the shortest was probably on July 4th, around 34 miles. There were some 70 and 80 mile days in there as well. We had 8 rest days where we did nothing at all but recharge our engines, laundry, bike repair etc.

Did we have any major bike breakdowns?

None. The Surley Disc Truckers are amazingly sturdy and reliable bikes and Vanessa at Landis Cyclery in Tempe set them up and fitted them perfectly for us. On a side note, our friend Vanessa is moving with her family to California before we get back to Phoenix so we won’t be able to share our road stories with her in person but we’ll stay in touch. We did have 5 flat tubes, one in Montana and 4 in two days of riding on the Interstate in North Dakota. We replaced both front and rear tires on both bikes due to the plain old wear and tear of the road. In Minneapolis we had the bikes checked out, cables and brakes tightened and both chains replaced, again normal wear and tear.

How many hours a day did we ride and where did we spend the nights?

In general, we tried to get on the road by 7 o’clock each day. The early start was to avoid the heat of the day and to get some miles in before the winds picked up. Also on most days we were able to dodge going-to-work traffic. We would pedal for 25 miles or so (about 2 hours) and take a snack break, bananas and protein bars and then resume biking until lunch, usually around 11:30 and then plan on stopping between 1:00 and 2:00. So it wasn’t that we were on the bikes every waking minute but probably 5 to 7 hours daily.

At the beginning we camped a bit but with the noise of the campgrounds and RV parks (dogs, trains, other campers – one woman next to us in Washington was on the phone to her friend at 3:00 am … loudly chattering away) we we weren’t getting enough “good” sleep to help us keep going day after day. We then shipped most of our camping gear back to Phoenix and utilized Warm Showers and hotels after that. We also shipped back our cold weather gear once we crossed the Continental Divide and later shipped some things we didn’t need anymore which emptied out our front panniers that we shipped back, too. So we were definitely lighter by the end of the trip.

What were your favorite and least favorite parts of the ride?

The most beautiful scenery along the route was in the mountains but also the hardest biking. Going through the Cascades and then Glacier NP were, I think, our favorite segments. Every day had its own challenge and beauty so there was never a terrible, horrible day but some of the hardest to get through were the rides into Browning, Montana, because of the endless hills and added mileage; after Wolf Point, Montana, because of the strong headwind; and some of the days in Vermont, New Hampshire and Maine caused by the numerous steep climbs. On the whole, we would both agree that the adventure was fun and enjoyable. We really enjoyed the long rail to trail paths in Minnesota and Wisconsin, the ride in the UP of Michigan, the Erie Canal and many others.

Be sure to post any questions you’d like us to answer. We’ll try to break ourselves away from activities like the below to answer them!!!!

image

Day 81 – Relax

Day 81 – Recovery

image

A deserved champagne toast

This is day 2 of no bikes and yes, we are feeling a little nostalgic for the routine and the enforced exercise of riding everyday. Both yesterday and today we have explored a little bit of Acadia and today we drove to Campobello to visit FDR’s summer cottage there. We pulled out our passports again to get there since (I didn’t know this) Campobello is in New Brunswick and it is in a joint US-Canadian international park. There were docents stationed at strategic places to educate us.

image.jpeg

US – Canadian park at Campobello

 

The island used to be a retreat for wealthy New York and Boston families in the 1900s and had several hotels including one with 400 rooms. The hotels are gone as are most of the houses but the Roosevelt cottage and two others have been preserved.

image.jpeg

The Roosevelts’ cottage

image.jpeg

FDR, his mother, Eleanor and kids

Just before the bridge back to the US we stopped at the Mulholland Point Lighthouse and since the tide was running out, seals were feasting on the smaller fish caught in the rip. A guide at the lighthouse explained the resident sea mammal life including a recent dramatic rescue of a baleine whale that was dangerously tangled in fishing lines to the point that they were cutting into his body and restricting his ability to feed. A team of naturalists labored for hours to slowly cut away the lines and freed the whale from the entanglement.

image.jpeg

Mulholland Point Lighthouse, New Brunswick

After crossing the bridge we passed through Lubec, the eastern most town in the US and drove to the West Quoddy Head Lighthouse, the easternmost point in the US.

image.jpeg

Now we are sitting on the rocks at Schoodic Point reading, writing and awaiting the sundown. Tomorrow we drive to Bob and Rebecca’s place in Sebasco, ME.

image.jpeg

Looking toward Mt. Desert from Schoodic Point

Random thoughts and observations about our 79 day journey:

* As we observed early on in our blog, we found people to be without fail eager to help and willing to open themselves up to strangers. I can only remember one driver who seemed to try to drive as close to us as possible then gunned his extra loud Diesel engine. Not sure why he chose to do that but in the end all it did was startle us.

* Americans are very patriotic. It’s a generalization but the flags, buntings and bumper stickers show that no political party or region has a monopoly on pride in our country or in supporting our troops.

* We saw many older than middle age men and women riding brand new Harleys and I’m sure the Harley-Davidson company is very glad for the market niche. Many folks were on three wheel motorcycles and some pulled small trailers.

* There is a love affair with the RV lifestyle. We saw them on the roads, in campgrounds, for sale used in front yards and lined up new in dealers’ lots. They truly are mobile homes complete with every amenity we have in our houses including some with Jacuzzis and multiple bedroom/bath suites.

* One could easily build and furnish a house with the various materials, furniture and appliances either for sale or for free in front of houses.

* The most common small business we saw was auto repair and body work. Every town had at least one of each and sometimes more. The most frequently seen chain stores we saw belonged to Family Dollar. They seemed to spring up everywhere. Until we reached some of the cities in the Midwest and east we hardly saw any Starbucks. There are, on the other hand, many Subways.

* I forgot to mention that when we came through Brunswick, Maine, we passed the home of Harriet Beecher Stowe, author of Uncle Tom’s Cabin. A few weeks previous to that In Ontario, we had passed the house that was the inspiration for her book.

While we feel we have accomplished a wonderful and long journey, we both feel that by taking one day at a time and even one mile at a time, this trip is not “epic” at all. There is something about establishing a daily routine and daily expectation of what is to be accomplished that reduces the 4200 mile into manageable distances. It’s the old “every journey begins with one step” phenomenon.

I’m absolutely certain we will remember other vignettes of the trip and we will continue to blog them in case anyone out there is still watching!

Day 78 – Damariscotta to Searsport

53 miles. Yep, more hills but the last day before Bar Harbor.

First I want to say that without Maja by my side I would not have made it out of the state of Washington. Her energy and spirit inspires me every mile. I can safely say there is no other person on the planet with whom I could spend every waking moment for 80 days and still be joyful. I would hate me if I had to spend 80 days with myself! She encouraged me in the gloomy moments when all I wanted to do was stop pedaling and sit down by the road and cry. Every day, almost every hour on a journey like this presents its own challenges and Maja helped me meet them all. To quote Fat Boy Slim, “I have to praise you like I should.”

image.jpeg

Maja keeping us on the route somewhere in North Dakota

Last night we walked the mile or so into Damariscotta and had a very good meal at the King Eider’s Pub. As we ate, the rain began so we managed to find a taxi to take us back to the DownEaster Inn. This morning we had to backtrack about 1.5 miles from there to get back on our route where we spent some miles riding on Route 1 with the expected tourist and truck traffic so were glad to get off that highway on to local roads. They were less busy but offered little in the way of shoulders and were steeper climbing.

We had a few ocean views to entertain us and the weather was alternately cloudy and sunny.

image.jpeg

Tide’s out on the rocky Maine coast

We rolled into Searsport, home of sea captains and boat builders with some impressive homes from the late 1800s.

image

image.jpeg

Ship captains’ and ship builders’ homes in Searsport

image.jpeg

These cannonballs probably won’t fit in the canon

Stopping at The Brick House for a late lunch we pedaled up the hill to The Yardarm, our last hotel on the road. Tomorrow will be Bar Harbor and the ceremonial riding into the Atlantic – from sea to shining sea.

 

image.jpeg

And a wrinkly old Smokey doing what he always does

Flags, signs and other stuff

All the way across the country we have seen many, many American flags in all sizes. Some are on flag poles, some on porches, some planted in yards.

image.jpeg

The patriotism and spirit is great to see and we watch the movement of the flags to give us an idea of wind direction and speed, like a tell tale in sailing. Some people have painted old shipping pallets to look like US flags.

image.jpeg

We have also seen many Marine Corps flags (none from the other branches), some Don’t Tread on Me flags and a few confederate flags. In Michigan a pick up went by us with a large confederate flag fluttering from one side of the bed and a don’t tread on me flag on the other. In various communities in the Midwest that had been originally settled by immigrants from European countries in the 1800s the flag of that nation is flying from store fronts and homes – German, Poland, Italy.

The variety of signs we see is vast and entertaining. In Montana there were warnings posted on fences around two houses that showed the profile of a Doberman and the words, “I can get to the gate before you can get to the house.” A cemetery posted “No Trespassing after Dark.” In upper NY state there were many yard signs promoting the repeal of the state’s Secure Ammunition and Firearms Enforcement Act that among other things, restricts Internet ammunition sales and the sale of large capacity clips. The law was passed after the Sandy Hook shootings. A sign at a golf course proclaimed, “I like big putts and I cannot lie…”

We have been surprised at how few Trump and Hilary signs we have seen. Certainly there have been more of the former but in this election year we expected to see many more. The candidate signs and posters we do see are for local elections for city council or sheriff or Congressional candidates. In Michigan a candidate for congress had many signs on the road saying, “Make Washington Listen.”

From Wisconsin eastward there were ubiquitous signs for camp firewood for sale. Racks had been constructed and the cost was between $3 and $5 per bin for “camp wood,” all on the honor system. Also on the honor system were vegetable stands and flower baskets.

image.jpeg

Everywhere we cycled people had cars, trucks, boats, motorcycles, RVs, snowmobiles, trailers and every other type of vehicle for sale by the road in front of their houses. Most of them had “for sale by owner” signs on them. There was one stretch through a town in New York where every house had a vehicle for sale on the road. Some were old junkers but others were new.

Day 77 – Danville to Damariscotta

57 miles. Another road closed and more hills.

Today was supposed to be a “light” day as we ease to the finish line in Maine. Note: Maine is not flat. There are so many little hills and ridges that are very steep so each mile is like a wind sprint followed by recovery downhill and immediately another wind sprint. When I ran track in high school and college, part of our training was sprinting 1/2 lap then speed walking 1/4, sprinting 1/2 lap and walking another 1/4, etc. almost to exhaustion. This is what yesterday and today have been. Whew! Our granny gears are getting a workout.

Since our hotel didn’t serve breakfast we left early and got to the Brunswick Diner after 20 miles or so for a “good food” (their wifi passwords) breakfast. After breakfast the fun began as we once again found our route completely blocked by construction on a bridge! We had to double back on the road we had just traveled and eventually got on to US1 in Bath at the bridge over the Kennebec River. The detour added about 4.5 miles to the day and also added a few expletives along the way. We were able to warn two other cyclists (two women with heavily laden bikes including violins) about the blockage so I hope we saved them a few miles.

image.jpeg

Our route is again only a few yards on the other side of the construction zone but impossible to get through.

image

An anhinga drying his wings seemed to mock our road closure agony

Once through the death defying run up to and over the bridge on Rte. 1 we paused to get a photo of some new Navy vessels docked at the Bath Iron Works.

image.jpeg

Wrapped and concealed Navy ships at the Bath Iron Works.

After the bridge we were able to rejoin our mapped out route to Wiscasset where we stopped for lunch, our first Maine lobster roll of the trip.

image.jpeg

Not sure if this photo was meant to be of me eating in Wiscasset or of the gull over my shoulder waiting for leftovers.

image.jpeg

Wiscasset harbor. Our first glimpse of the Atlantic.

Getting rolling again was difficult and the traffic on Route 1 was very heavy but we struggled up and down some more hills to the Down Easter Inn in Damariscotta.

Tomorrow will be more of the leg and lung burning to Searsport for our last stop before Bar Harbor!

image.jpeg

Maine art

Day 76 – Fryeburg to Danville

57 miles. Many, many hills.

image.jpeg

Our eleventh state!

Donna at the Admiral Peary Inn loaded us up with a good breakfast for what we knew was going to be a tough day with lots of ups and downs. We are close to the coast in Maine but the roads are anything but flat as they cross ridge after ridge. None of the hills are Cascades or Rockies height or length but are steep and numerous.

image.jpeg

More stone walls

We had read from other cross country cycling blogs that the condition of the roads in Maine was poor and the shoulders unpredictable in width. At the beginning today we were on a new road with a wide shoulder but as we have come to expect, soon the rough pavement and narrow shoulder returned.

We forged ahead and today saw many old cemeteries, some severe looking. We passed lakes, state forests and trails and, of course, more camp firewood for sale.

image.jpeg

Simple and eternal rest

image.jpeg

image.jpeg

Stopping for lunch at a clearing, we took a breather and then pedaled the rest of the way to the Sleepy Time Motel outside of Auburn, Maine. (The owners originally are from Phoenix.)

image.jpeg

Subway for lunch

Tomorrow promises more climbs, short, steep and intense.  We are down to three more days on this journey!

image.jpeg

View of the Maine mountains and a local IPA at dinner last night.

 

Post script

I forgot to mention that the other thing that was so special about our ride over the past days was the opportunity to see three beavers at the start of one of our days. We had started early in the morning to beat the heat and were riding next to a crystal clear river. We saw one adult beaver swimming toward what seemed to be a small log in the river, but we then realized that it was a baby beaver that the adult picked up. And just further ahead was another adult beaver that dived under the water, but because the water was so clear, we could continue watching it. It was really amazing! And it reminded me of my very first longer bike ride that I took while in high school with a friend. We rode from Bangor to Dedham to spend the night with her grandmother. The ride was about 12 miles each way with one serious climb. Not bad for two girls who had never gone more than a couple of miles to school and back. On the route we stopped by a little pond and watched a beaver dragging some branches to its home. Later that day we saw a moose behind her grandmother’s very modest home. It was a real adventure for us.

The same day Charles and I saw the beavers, we saw another bald eagle. It’s so exciting to see these majestic birds soaring over us. I will never tire of it and hope we will see many more along the Maine coast.

We didn’t have any adventures today. Just a lot of climbing and a fair amount of heat. Sometimes the smaller hills can be harder than the mountains just because they’re so steep. I was in my granny gear several times today, which I hadn’t needed to use while climbing our monster mountain yesterday. And Charles and I actually dismounted and walked 25 yards or so when the incline was just too steep up one hill. Tomorrow will be another tough one. But we only have three to go.

Day 75 – Lincoln to Fryeburg, Maine

45 miles. Our last big climb, crowded roads, heat and into our last state.

We stayed up a little too late last night watching the Olympics with Larry and we knew we could sleep in since the outdoors shop that baby sat our bikes didn’t open until 9. After a nice breakfast at Flapjacks in Lincoln we woke up our cycles and loaded up our panniers and headed out. The climb to Kancamagus Pass started almost immediately from the shop and it was 13 miles of uphill. Due to our superior conditioning (!!!!) the ride wasn’t as tough as we expected and we crested in a little over 1 1/2 hours.

image.jpeg

We even had some decent views as the clouds and fog were lifting.

image.jpeg

image

Sadly, the downhill wasn’t as thrilling as the effort to get to the top would warrant but at least it was mostly down for the balance of our ride into Conway, NH, and finally into Fryeburg.

We were able to stop at a few overlooks to take in the scenery but there was a lot of tourist traffic at the swimming holes and falls.

image.jpeg

We stopped for a sandwich in Conway at the Sweet Maple Café and while the food was good, they advertise a 10% senior discount and I qualify. I forgot to ask for the discount when we ordered and paid and when I went back in to ask if the missing 10% could be refunded or applied to a cookie, I was refused and was shown the small sign by the register that advises that the discount must be asked for when ordering. Without my reading glasses (I am a senior, after all) I hadn’t read the sign. I asked the manager if she couldn’t make an exception and was coldly rebuffed. Her excuse was that she would have to void the original ticket and start over (so much for the customer always being right).

From the cafe it was a little over 8 miles to the Admiral Peary Inn in Fryeburg and we slogged through the humidity and end of the weekend traffic to pull in much later than we are used to making it to our daily destinations. Our host Donna has made us feel very welcome and pointed us in the direction of our room, the Oriental Room and now we have showered and are relaxing and soon headed to dinner at the 302 West Smokehouse and Tavern.

We have made it to our 11th and last state on this journey and have 4 more days of biking til we dunk our front tires in the Atlantic!!!!

image.jpeg

 

The last couple of weeks

These last couple of weeks or so, as we’ve been cycling through New England, have been some of the best of our trip for me, first and foremost and not surprisingly, because of the people we’ve met up with. In New York, my sister, her husband and two of their three daughters drove from Ithaca to Fair Haven, NY–over an hour’s drive–to meet us for dinner. It was great to see them all and be able to catch up, which we hope to do more of in September when we all get together in CA for a nephew’s wedding. Also, they had arranged for a dinner at a gorgeous water-front restaurant. It was definitely one of the best meals of our trip. We were doubly lucky since our motel was miles from a place to eat and I’m not sure if the town had any taxis to drive us to dinner had we not been dining with my sister. And the last thing we want to do after a hard day’s ride is bike to and from dinner. My brother-in-law had also decided that, since there seemed to be no breakfast place in town, he would organize a boxed breakfast. The sandwiches were incredibly yummy and so big that the leftovers became our lunch.

image

My sister, Anke, her husband Ric and two of their daughters Marin and Rory at the beautiful lake location where we had dinner.

A few days later, we rode to Buffalo where a college classmate had reached out to us when she read in the alumni magazine that we were biking cross-country to benefit the Frank Lloyd Wright Foundation and invited us to spend a night in her home, just around the corner from the Darwin Martin House. Jennifer and I couldn’t quite put a finger on how we had known each other at Dartmouth, but after spending a day with her and her kids, I wished that we had spent more time together in college. But there’s always time to make up for that now and I hope we have more opportunities to get together in the future.

A few days later, we cycled into East Thetford, VT where we were met by one of our oldest and dearest friends, Camilla, with whom we just spent two nights and a rest day in Hanover, NH. We squeezed our bikes into her mini-van and she drove us to and from her place and our route. We had such a wonderful time with her–catching up, talking politics, watching the Olympics and eating and drinking to our hearts content including an incredible home made peach/blueberry pie and homemade chocolate malts. Camilla knows us way too well and had all our favorite foods and drinks. And she treated us to a wonderful massage. We have found that periodic massages really make all the difference! My shoulder has been SOOOO much better. While in Hanover we had drinks with an old college roommate, Deb. It was so much fun to talk about old times and great to realize that my difficulty in remembering exactly who I had roomed with at Dartmouth was not unique to me. Deb also gave us great tips on places to travel to, so our travel “to do” list as just grown by leaps and bounds. Earlier that day Camilla drove us to Manchester where we met up with another old college roommate, Judy, for lunch and a tour of Frank Lloyd Wright’s Zimmerman House. Again, it was great to see Judy and I just wish that we all lived much closer together so we could see each other more often.

image.jpeg

We tried to convince Camilla to join us on our ride, but this was as close as we got her to come–dropping us off on our route after a wonderful stay with her.

We then stayed with another old housemate from my SAIS days just outside Lincoln, VT, the next night. Larry drove over 2 hours from Boston, had organized for the local bike shop to store our bikes overnight, and drove us to his vacation condo 30 minutes away where we had a wonderful dinner, watched the Olympics and spent the night. We hadn’t seen Larry in about 7 years so had a lot of catching up to do. We really appreciate that he drove almost 5 hours back and forth to spend a little time with us.

Getting together to with friends over the course of this trip has been a highlight and has made me realize how lucky we are to know such wonderful people. We will definitely make more of an effort to meet up with them more frequently.

A second highlight of the last 10 days or so has been riding through New England where I spent my junior high, high school and college years. It’s been wonderful for me to ride through this beautiful area of the US and to remember trips and activities of my youth: picking blueberries and apples, swimming in pristine lakes, visiting the Niagara Falls, and hiking through gorgeous landscapes. I definitely miss the water that is all around us here–just in case you haven’t noticed from the fact that so many of my photos are water centric. I am looking forward to riding into Acadia National Park where we spent huge chunks of our summers and weekends over the course of the years we lived in Maine.

image

Another aquatic photo from yesterday in New Hampshire.

image.jpeg

We haven’t seen any moose yet, but seeing this sign reminded me of the time a moose peered into my classroom window in 5th grade. What a shocker that was!

And finally, watching the Olympics has been so inspiring. I’ve stayed up until midnight on many nights watching the swimmers and gymnasts win so many golds and have been in tears most nights as I listen to their stories. I am awed by how hard they have worked to get where they are and happy that all of their hard work has paid off. Another of my college roommates won a silver medal in rowing (single scull) so I am well aware of the sacrifices each one of these Olympians has made to get to where they are today, making winning look so easy. I admit that during the course of the day, when I may be struggling on a particularly difficult climb, I think of how hard these athletes have worked and that encouraged me to keep going. I’m sorry that the swimming is over now, but happy that I can get back to a normal sleep routine. 😉

Only four more days until we ride into Bar Harbor. Hard to believe. The weeks have flown by.