Day 72 -Rochester to E. Thetford

51 miles. Early morning fog, fairly big climb, heat and good tip from fellow cyclist

Thanks to Richard and Debbie, our hosts at the Pumpkin Patch BnB, for getting up before dawn to fix us a delicious and energy sustaining breakfast. We headed on the road around 6 and within the first mile we saw two adult beavers and a pup swimming in the river.

Gently rolling hills with an overall downhill trajectory took us to Bethel and eventually to the base of our major climb outside of Sharon. We peaked out at 1500 feet over 4.5 miles and when I caught up with Maja waiting at the top she was talking to a cyclist who had climbed up the other side on his ultralight road bike. We talked for a while and he warned us it would be “wicked hot” but that we had a nice a nice downhill in front of us. We parted and we headed down one side as he rode down the other. It was indeed a nice long downhill and after 20 minutes who should pull up behind us but our friend from the top caught up with us! That meant he had biked to the bottom of the climb at Sharon, turned around and sped back up the hill, crested and caught us on the downhill side. Amazing. In our defense he was riding a light road bike, was in great shape, was not carrying panniers and knew the road. But still…

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Still smiling after almost 4000 miles!

Toward the end our maps advised us to turn left through Thetford to East Thetford where we were to meet Camilla. Just before that turn our buddy said that road was under construction and had two climbs on the way to our destination but if we stayed on the road we were on, we would get to East Thetford without construction or climbs but added about 4 miles to the journey. We trust road advice from cyclists over that of people who don’t ride so we thanked him as we took the flatter route.

We met up with Camilla right on time at Isabell’s Cafe in East Thetford and we sat for a bit talking and into the restaurant walked our cycling friend!

So now we have a much needed rest day as we prepare for the last legs of our trip. We got a new front tire for Maja’s bike (we each have 2 new tires since our departure) at Omer and Bob’s bike shop in Lebanon.

Maja and I had a meeting at Dartmouth (Maja’s alma mater) in the afternoon so we had some time after that to revisit the campus after which we returned to Camilla’s house for dinner and Olympics watching.

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Baker Hall at Dartmouth (the library)

Tomorrow we have massages in the morning and a tour of the Zimmerman House in Manchester and meet up with two of Maja’s college friends and Saturday we head into New Hampshire and over the White Mountains – you guessed it, more climbs.

Day 71 – Ticonderoga to Rochester, VT

47 miles. A grey day and a long slog up Brandon Gap in high humidity

We are out of NY and into our 9th state, Vermont. Starting early, we pedaled to the ferry landing and waited for the first eastbound trip.

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The ferry arrives. That’s Vermont on the other shore

Once over into VT, it started to rain, as was predicted for the entire day, but stopped after about 15 minutes and didn’t rain the rest of the day.

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Our host Richard at tonight’s BnB, the Pumpkin Patch, had told me by phone that the ACA route was under construction and he had learned from other cyclists to avoid the path through Middlebury and take #73. There would be climbs, he assured me, but once over the gap it would be downhill the rest of the way into Rochester. And what a climb it was.

We thought we had found a short cut to Richard’s route that would have made today a manageable 38 miles but, as these things sometimes go, our wonderful little short cut was blocked by a crew replacing a culvert on the road. We stared longingly at the other side of the hole being dug and our dream was to walk our bikes the 25 feet over the ditch to resume our ride. The foreman was adamant about his liability risk so refused our plaintive begging. The work-around added 9 miles or so to our day that was no longer the manageable ride we had planned.

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We spent at least 20 minutes begging to be allowed to walk our bikes over to the promised land on the other side of the ditch. but to no avail. What you probably can’t see is the frustration on my face. The detour erased all of the advantage our short cut would have created.

The temps were cool but the humidity high so it wasn’t really comfortable cycling. Maja, of course, sped up the hill and I slogged along way behind forced to walk the bike at various times as the road grew steeper. Outside Brandon we passed a plaque commemorating the invention of the electric motor there by Thomas Davenport in 1834. I wasn’t aware that Yankee tinkerers were playing around with DC electricity then but I learned tonight that Volta invented a wet battery in the early 1800s.

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But back to the ride.

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The end of the long slog up and now for the 9 mile reward downhill

Once over the gap it was a 9 mile downhill run and after 6 of those miles I found Maja patiently waiting for me and after a brief sandwich we pedaled the rest of the way to the Pumpkin Patch.

An enjoyable dinner tonight at the School Street Bistro so now we are resting for tomorrow’s challenging hill climbs and our entry into New Hampshire. We will spend a rest day on Friday with our friend Camilla and visit the last of the Wright houses on this trip, the Zimmerman House in Manchester, NH. We are both looking forward to completion of our journey and will spend a few days in Maine decompressing before heading back to Phoenix… by air not by bike!

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Vermont’s version of our hay bale motif

Day 70 – Newcomb to Ticonderoga

46 miles. A beautiful day of hills.

Thanks to our new friends Wendy, Donna, Anita and Chantal for driving us to dinner last night. There were no restaurants close to our BnB – at least for tired cyclists. These women are avid climbers and working on the 46 peak climb challenge. Wendy, in fact, will summit her 46th tomorrow. Congratulations!

Kelly, our BnB host fixed us an early breakfast so we could get on the road by 7. We crossed the Hudson River and wound our way through the forests with climbs and descents galore.

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Early morning crossing of the Hudson River.

There was very little traffic for the first part of the morning and the ride was very quiet. We passed some beautiful scenery on the way and eventually turned onto US 9 to head south for a bit.

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Grazing buffalo at a farm we passed. We watched as they rolled in the dust.

We passed the town of Schroon and I was tempted to ride to Schroon Lake where my mother had studied voice at the Seagle Music Colony in the 1930s. It is one of the oldest operatic training theaters in the US and still turning out young singers. To us, every mile is critical so to keep to our schedule and preserve our energies, we decided to not seek out more adventure.

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We turned onto a hard packed dirt road and rode through thick forests and emerged at the town of Severance. There we turned one last time on the road that would take us to Ticonderoga.

Two views along the dirt River Road.

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Private club beach in Severance

We had read and had been warned about a significant uphill just before Ticonderoga so were both looking at each rise in the road wondering if this was the big one! We finally found it and either because the build up was over the top or because we are in better shape than the earlier “monster” climbs, it wasn’t so bad and we soon topped out and started a long descent into Ticonderoga.

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We earned this long downhill run into Ticonderoga

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Addendum to day 69

Today was a GORGEOUS day. We started with some trepidation because our map said that starting from Old Forge where we spent the night yesterday, the hills would turn to mountains. The day started with thick fog, but the kind where you knew it would burn off and the day would turn sunny. And indeed, 90 minutes later we were biking in the sun, but the day remained cool. It was one of the prettier days of our ride. The air was crisp, the “mountains” were doable, and the scenery was beautiful. The problem for me, as team “Wescov” photographer, was that we were either climbing or descending most of the day so that stopping for photos was difficult. Suffice to say, I could have taken hundreds.

To top of a great day of riding, we had a nice, warm lake right across the road and some friendly Canadian hikers in our B&B who offered to take us with them to dinner since there was no place close by. We had an interesting conversation about politics in Canada and the US.

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The view from our dinner table overlooking Long Lake

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Charles and Maja after enjoying a great meal. That is not a halo above Maja’s head, just her reading glasses.

On a final note, I would like to thank the State of NY for keeping up its roads! The roads we’ve been on for the past three days have consistently been the best of our whole trip–nice smooth surface and wide shoulders.

Day 69 – Old Forge to Newcomb

60 miles. Hills, of course, but not too bad.

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The fog starts to lift

We got a very early start from Old Forge this AM since the hotel didn’t serve breakfast until 8 and that would be too late for us to begin cycling. We planned on having breakfast at the other end of the lake in the town of Inlet so away we sped. Dense fog greeted us! And it was chilly. The fog was so thick that at times we couldn’t see our way. Inlet is only 10 miles away and by the time we got there, most of the fog had burned off. We were able to get sandwiches made at the Tamarack Diner for our lunch.

There was still quite a bit of traffic on the road but the shoulder was adequate (mostly) and the climbs not fear inducing… except the climb out of Blue Mountain Lake! It was a mile or so of steep climbing and I had to bail and walk my bike for some of it. Once over the top, though, the terrain was rolling up and down with some scenic moments along the way.

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Ho hum. Another beautiful lake!

 

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Methodist church in a small town along the way.

We made very good time and finished up around 12:30 at The Hoot Owl Lodge BnB. Lake Harris is right across the street so Maja indulged in a short swim.

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There are no restaurants within walking distance but fortunately for us, some of the other guests at the BnB have offered to a place in their car when they go to dinner. Pretty much the last thing we feel like doing at the end of the day is getting back on the bikes even for an extra mile or so.

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Lake Harris

Tomorrow we ride to Ticonderoga for our last day in New York. Only Vermont, New Hampshire and Maine!!

 

Day 68 – Redfield to Old Forge

60 miles. Hills. That’s all I have to say.

Since our hotel did not serve breakfast, we got up early and were on the road before the mists had burned off.

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We found our breakfast spot in Osceola and in conversation with some of the regulars there we were told to expect hills today… Yes, we know. We were also told that the road we were to be on was “very scenic.” No, not so much. Just hilly. We were able to buy sandwiches for later in the day.

The road followed the Moose River up stream and I think we found the one scenic spot on the whole ride.

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Our one scenic view of the Moose River

We finally rolled into Old Forge, a resort and vacation town in the Adirondacks on Old Forge Pond, the first lake of the Fulton Chain.

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Old Forge Pond

As usual, we were a little too fatigued to enjoy the sights but did sit by the lake for a bit then walked around town and had one of the best meals of our trip at the Five Corners Cafe.

Tomorrow we head deeper into the Adirondacks and more hills.

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A glimpse of the “hills” we have yet to face after Ticonderoga… Does not include the hills over the next 4 days!

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Life is good!

Day 67 – Fair Haven to Redfield

61 miles. A lot of hills – and more to come.

We got away early this morning after our breakfast of sandwiches kindly bought for us yesterday by Ric and Anke. The first hill attacked us immediately and it was a roller coaster from there on.

Maja was very speedy today (or maybe it was I who was very slow – ya think?) so we spent a lot of the day barely in sight of each other except for breaks and map checks.

The day had little of significance to offer other than the challenge of the hills but believe it or not, it was sort of a pleasant ride weather wise (overcast with the wind at our backs for long stretches) and we rolled into our little hotel in Redfield – Otter Limits and The Nook. When I called yesterday to make the reservation I told the owner we would be there around 2:30 so when we pulled up at 1:30 he said I was too early and we had to go back! Score one for the sense of humor.

There is little in the way of an option for dining so we will eat right here and head off tomorrow for Old Forge on a route that promised more of the old climb and coast routine.

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Hops. Thanks to the growth of micro brewing there is an increasing demand for locally grown hops.

Update to yesterday’s ride

We have finished for the day and now I have the energy to catch up and post yesterday’s adventure.

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Our last piece of flat riding for the rest of our trip

We started from Rochester on paved sections of the Erie Canal bike path that changed to crushed limestone. We knew we had to leave the path in Palmyra so kept our eyes open for our turn and we once again, reluctantly, were back in the real world of traffic, shoulders and hills!

We stopped for some water at a vegetable stand as a light rain began and the minute we pulled out it started pouring. We put on our rain gear but sought shelter on someone’s front porch! After the rain we were back on the road.

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Heavy rain drove us to find shelter

Our route took us north to the shore of Lake Ontario at Pultneyville where we learned of another battle/skirmish from the War of 1812.

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The Battle of Pultneyville park

From there we took the coast road that never really got us next to the shore. Contrary to what the woman at the vegetable stand said, the Lake Road was anything but flat so we got a glimpse of what our lives will be like for the remainder of our trek – up and down and up and down all the way to Bar Harbor.

Because we had stopped a little short of our intended overnight stop to take advantage of the Rochester hotel’s nearness to the canal, we had an additional and painful extra 8 miles tacked on to getting us to Fair Haven.

Maja’s sister, Anke, and family drove up from Ithaca and picked us up at the hotel to drive us to dinner. We are very glad they were kind enough to meet us since there was no place remotely close to the hotel for us to eat! After a very enjoyable dinner, as you learned from yesterday’s abbreviated post, we crashed.

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Our dining view at The Pleasant Beach hotel.

Day 66 – Rochester to Fair Haven

79 miles. A few miles too far today.

We had it all today – paved trail, gravel trail, roads, clouds, torrential rain, blistering sun, heat, tail winds, head winds, you name it! The stage took longer than we thought and after a very nice dinner with Maja’s sister Anke and most of her family (Ric, Marin and Rory) we are toasted and too tired to post. Sorry but we’ll catch up tomorrow from the big city of Redfield, NY.

We have a winner!

Someone has guessed correctly what I was counting and has won a Frank Lloyd Wright design cell phone cover. I was, indeed, comparing the number of McDonald’s to Burger Kings. My winner was surprised by the low number of both, as was I, but we have to remember that we were riding through mostly small towns. The places that had a Burger King almost always had a McDonald’s nearby, but many towns could obviously only support one fast food burger joint, and in those cases they had a McDonald’s, proving the value of incumbency. I know that you will be disappointed to read this, but since we have a winner, I will stop counting. Thanks to all of you who joined in the fun!

As you all know, we have rarely been rained on. The parched look of western NY is testament to the lack of rain. Yards are brown, corn is stunted and dry and soybean plants are also significantly smaller than ones we’ve passed across other states. While we can’t complain about staying dry on our rides, we do feel bad about the farmers whose livelihood is suffering. Today as we were cycling along the Erie Canal, many farmers were pumping water out of the canal to irrigate their fields. We don’t know if this is normal or something that is just done when Mother Nature doesn’t do her bit to keep the crops watered.

Speaking of water, we have been drinking a ton over the course of the last few days as the heat wave has finally caught up to us. It has been hot and humid. And today add dusty to the list since we were riding on crushed limestone all day along the Canal. Our bikes, bags, etc. are gray with dust. We will have more of the same tomorrow until we turn off the canal and head toward Lake Superior, which we hope will be a bit cooler.

Today I made our reservations at a Bed and Breakfast near Bar Harbor, so the end of our adventure is nearing. We have only 13 more days with bums on saddles and 14 more days total until we reach our destination. As we looked at the map to plan our final days, we wonder why the American Cycling Association decided to end its Northern Tier Route in Bar Harbor since we bike north along the coast of Maine for a couple hundred miles before we get there. Charles and I discussed whether we should call it quits when we reach the Maine coast, but decided to soldier on. After all, what’s a couple hundred more miles? and we wouldn’t want to be accused of false advertising! 😇 So, with that said, we are now looking at riding into Bar Harbor on August 18 and flying back to Arizona around the 25th. Woohoo!