Human interest

8:1

Before I start on the title subject, I have to say that Mother Nature is incredibly fickle!  The wonderful tail wind we experienced Sunday turned into a head wind two days ago and yesterday and we had one of our worst biking days ever.  Up hills were made doubly difficult and we had to peddle down hill, which is super frustrating.  We came this close to accepting an offer from a kind woman to throw our bikes into her pickup for a ride to Glasgow, our destination for the day, 30 miles down the road.  But, we soldiered on and arrived in Glasgow a couple hours later than anticipated, but under our own power.  Yay!  That said, Charles was very discouraged and was not in the mood for much of a ride today and our cheeks (not the ones on our faces) literally have dents in them from the saddles! So we cut the ride short–48 miles–and have been spending the afternoon resting and catching up on emails, ordering various things on line for delivery at future warm shower hosts, etc.

Speaking of warm shower hosts… You have heard some from Charles about our most recent stays.  I cannot say enough kind things about them.  They go out of their way to welcome us into their homes, often treating us to dinner and/or breakfast.  We learn so much from them about the local communities through which we’re traveling and have without exception had very interesting conversations.  These are all people we would be proud to have as friends.  The day before yesterday we spent the night with a young man (a year older than Brady) who shared his almost unfurnished home with us.  He had recently moved to Malta, MT and had yet to acquire much furniture.  We slept on the floor of his empty guest bedroom.  As Charles mentioned, he fixed dinner for us, invited a friend over to share it with us, lent me a sleeping pad since mine had mysteriously disappeared, and shared his knowledge of alternative biking routes and local lore.  I hope his parents know what a wonderful young man he is!  Yesterday we stayed with a wonderful couple in Glasgow, whom Charles has also described.  Again, they went out of their way to make us feel welcome–picking us up from town and chauffeuring us and our bikes to their place, making us a great dinner and breakfast, but most of all, entertaining us with wonderful conversation.  We learned so much from them about cattle and breeding (one tidbit of info: the difference between a steer and a bull is that a bull still has all of its moving parts, if you get my drift), the various towns we’re riding through, the travels they’ve done, their kids and the great things they’re doing…  I could go on and on.  We have been truly lucky to meet these fine people and look forward to meeting our future warm shower hosts.

Not everyone we have met has been a paragon of human virtue…  Yesterday, as we were struggling up one of the larger hills of the day with significant headwinds, a fellow rider going the other direction and benefitting from a huge tailwind, crossed over to our side of the road and stopped us, basically to gloat about how wonderful it was to ride with a tailwind.  Not only was this bad form to stop a biker on the way up a hill, but also bad etiquette to gloat.  We didn’t stop long to chat.

Our aches and pains were aggravated by the last couple of days of tough riding.  The knots in my left shoulder are so painful that I can’t look over my left shoulder, which means I always have to ask Charles if the road is clear whenever I want to turn left.  The shoulder also hurts non-stop when I’m riding and is all but unbearable.  I’m hoping to get a birthday massage in Bismarck where we will be taking a day off.  Derrière pain is also a constant.  Charles’ hands continue to bother him and the weather we’ve had over the past several days has resulted in him feeling his knees as well as other old injuries that he hasn’t felt in years.  But, I guess all of these pains give us something to think about during our long rides.  Ha ha…

Anyway, if there’s one message I want to leave all of you with, it’s that there are a lot of really wonderful people out there.  We’ve been enjoying getting to know them, whether over dinner or just at rest stops.  It’s been a really unexpected pleasure of our ride.

My heroes: Charles, Mother Nature and REI

6:1

Today was a biking day made in heaven!  It wasn’t too hot or cold, nor too sunny or cloudy and we had heavy winds (gusting up to 35 mph) at our backs!  Hills that normally would have beem the source of trepidation or despair were easy with a friendly windy push and we rode for miles at a time on flats or slight negative grades without pedaling.  We averaged 16.67 miles per hour on the bikes.  Normally we’re happy to average 10.  Hurray!  The wind also made what could have been a slightly monotonous landscape into an emerald sea.  At times it looked as though there were schools of silvery fish swimming just under the surface.  I kept expecting some to break the surface.  It was gorgeous!  And the tawny and rust colored grasses on the side of the road often looked like a lion shaking his mane.  Thanks Mother Nature.

The only downside of our windy day was that our bikes fell over at one point when I was taking photos and one of our pannier clips broke making it impossible to attach the pannier to the bike.

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One of the photo culprits at the root of the pannier fiasco.

Luckily, our man Charles was ready with a zip tie and was able to save the day.  Semper paratus.

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Charles fixing the pannier

At the next town we arrived in (Chester) I called REI and arranged for a new set of front panniers to be sent General Delivery to a post office in North Dakota where we plan to be on Friday.  So we’ll be good as new.

It was a fantastic day and I’m sure the fastest we will ever bike 104 miles in our lives.

 

Musings (3) by Maja

5:1 (surprised at how small the numbers are at this point)

It’s been a while since I added my thoughts to our blog, so here goes.

I have caught myself on several days singing America the Beautiful, My Country tis of thee, and This Land is Your Land to myself.  The beauty of the countryside we’ve been riding through is breathtaking.  And then there are days like yesterday, where I started out awed by the beauty of Glacier National Park and the Going to the Sun Road (should have been called Going into the Clouds Road, given our experience).  But we ended our day on a more subdued note, riding in low hanging, monochromatic gray clouds into Indian Reservation land that reminded me of areas of Texas I’ve seen with plastic bags hanging on every fence, in bushes, on trees and just blowing around.  It was very dreary and Charles and I were definitely ready for the end of the day after 80+ miles.

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Taken while riding.  Gray and dreary!

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The road we’re on–Route 2–follows the railway and is nicknamed the highline.

Today started out with more of the same dull, gray but even days like this have their bright moments:  three kids racing their horses in a field, yelling and whistling;  a train engineer who blew his horn in greeting as he chugged past; grains and flowers that add color to the fields; people coming up to us in parking lots with questions, comments and words of encouragement; the sun finally peaking through right after we got rained on.  Even on the hardest days, there’s something to admire and to raise our spirits.  Human nature is mostly positive and people are so nice.  In addition to the couple that warmed us in their van yesterday (see Charles’ blog) one woman stopped us on the way down and asked if we wanted to just sit in her car and offered us a warm cap, water and food.  So nice!

Charles and I sometimes have different ideas about how far we can ride.  Today was one of those days.  We cut our ride a bit shorter than I would have liked, but I think it was probably the right decision to make.  The weather forecast is for rain, hail and wind tonight and we’re in a nice Holiday Inn in Shelby where we’ve been able to do our laundry.  A big plus!

Our three days of R&R at Glacier got us a bit out of the habit of biking every day.  We probably won’t take such a long break again in the future. I can’t say that there haven’t been times, during the middle of a long, hard ride where we may not have questioned ourselves and what we’re doing.  But never for more than a few minutes at a time.  There’s always something that reminds us how lucky we are to be doing this trip.

I’m still surprised at how little I think about during the hours on the bike.  Today I was wondering why the little prarie dogs cross the open and dangerous roads when they have a gazillion acres of perfectly great land on one side of the road.  We’ve seen lots of squished prarie dogs on the road.  As well as dead dear.  Today we got to bike past a freshly killed skunk… Litter analysis on the road is also a constant.  Lots more broken glass in the reservation.  More cans outside of the Res.  How do people lose so many single shoes?  While rumble strips in road shoulders are certainly a big safety enhancer for cars, they’re not much fun for bikes.  We spend a lot of time debating whether we should ride on the remaining narrow strips of shoulder or ride on the road, which is also generally a lot smoother than the shoulder.  Why do towns tend to be in hillier areas?  Wind abatement?  And then there’s the continuous  analysis of the weather.  It’s all pretty basic and very much in the moment.

Below are some photos from our climb up the Going to the Sun Road.  I’ve been pretty indiscriminate in including them.

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Starting the climb.  Already getting cloudy.

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Since we got a 6 am start, the road was pretty empty except for the last hour or so.

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Lots of waterfalls.  This one was cool because it ran under the road.

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Another water fall.

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Biking through the clouds.  Normally I might have been disappointed to be missing the views, but this was pretty cool, albeit also somewhat scary.

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Periodically it looked as though the clouds might lift.

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Until they didn’t.

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Still pretty, though.

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We were in the parking lot at the top when this big cloud just came rolling in.

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On the way down and the sun emerges.

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We had to stop periodically on the way down to warm up.

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We biked through areas that had been hit by forest fires last year.

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And then we were biking away from Glacier, seen only in the background.

Some more photos….

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On our ride out of Anacortes we rode on a sketch of asphalt where a sign warned cyclists to be ware of sharp objects.  Seagulls dropped clams onto the asphalt to break them and eat the meat, leaving the sharp shells on the pavement.

 

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One of the many gorgeous lakes we passed early in our ride through Washington

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Winding roads up hill

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Our first camping location in a national park on the way to our huge climbs

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Washington Pass:  our hardest day by far.  42 miles up hill.  Altitude 5,477 feet

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Barns….  I could have taken photos of them all day long

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Beautiful fields on the way the BC, Canada

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A lake on the same route

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Taking a wee break

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Our favorite road sign!

 

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One of many scenic spots for a picnic lunch

 

Musings (2) by Maja

3:1. A free Frank Lloyd Wright phone cover to whoever guesses correctly what the preceding numbers refer to. They will change over the course of our ride. All guesses are welcome.

Washington, Idaho and Montana

As we left Washington and entered Idaho, I was thinking about my impressions of the State. Scenic, green, lumber, lumber and more lumber, lots of bodies of water, and above all friendly. Washington has set a pretty high friendliness bar. We’ll see how future states fare.

Our ride through Idaho yesterday was absolutely everything a bike ride should be. Beautiful weather–not too hot or cold, nor too sunny or cloudy–and gorgeous scenery. It truly is “God’s country” as one gentleman with whom we were speaking called it. We spent the night in Clark’s Ford, a tiny town with a high school, a small country store, a bakery, a restaurant and a lodge. We were totally blown away by the quality of the food in a place we easily could have dismissed as being in the middle of nowhere The bakery used and stocked goods that were organic and local as did the restaurant. Both could easily have made it in a large city. But their owners prefer little Clark’s Ford. This ride is certainly teaching me a thing or two about assumptions.

Outside of the bakery we talked to a couple who retired to the area about 8 years ago and bought some land on the river–enough so that they don’t see any of their neighbors. I imagine that he was about 75 or so. His parents were German and he grew up in CA speaking German and still did a bit. We talked a while about our common ancestry and how his uncle had been captured by the Russians during WW II and then escaped and surrendered to the Americans, just like mine. He and his wife provide the eggs used by the bakery. They were a lot of fun to talk to (the couple, not the eggs). These short conversations we are having with people we meet on the road are some of the highlights of our trip.

Today we entered Montana after about 6 miles of riding and then continued for another 55 or so. We had decided to take an alternate route that got us off the busy two-lane highway with zero shoulders and blind turns for at least a little while. We ended up riding on a dirt road into nowhere because we missed our turn back onto the highway and got lost. Luckily for us, we managed to flag down a vehicle that happened past and the driver offered to take us back to where we should have been. We happily accepted his offer! During the ride he told us that he had moved here 7 years ago when his wife passed away. She had suffered from heart problems that cost them over half a million dollars in medical expenses. They weren’t insured because he had just started a new business and so they had to declare bankruptcy. After her death, he moved back to Montana and started driving for the oil companies. He has now retired, lives in a little cabin in the woods that is off grid (solar and generator) does odd jobs and is active in his church. If we had seen this guy on the street, we could easily have thought that he was homeless. And yet he was the salt of the earth, well-read, and interesting to talk to. And of course, helpful and friendly. Another lesson in judging a book by its cover.

Physical Fitness

On a different note, many of you are probably wondering about how we’re doing physically. A ride like this certainly has an impact on the body. First and foremost, is the posterior. 6-12 hours of riding each day takes a toll. Hot days generate painful rashes. Other days just result in pain, period. There’s nothing really to be done about it. I have pretty constant pain in one of my shoulders. Sometimes better, sometimes worse. I imagine that this isn’t going to get any better over the course of the ride. Charles is having some wrist problems that have resulted in numbness in some of his fingers. But he’s figured out that if he moves his hands around a lot, the numbness improves, so the past few days have been better. His knees are holding up. All in all, we’re doing fine. Ibuprofen is the name of the game.

Mental Fitness

You may also be asking yourself what we think about as we ride for hours and hours on end. In fact, as I’ve been riding, I ask myself that as well. It’s funny how the mind just empties… I enjoy the beauty of the land through which we’re riding, I read names on mailboxes and think of people I’ve known with the same names. I think about how many miles we’ve ridden and how many more are to come and are they flat or hilly. I think a lot about the cars and trucks that are passing us–are they too close, how fast they’re driving, how big they are, and what they’re transporting. I think about Charles and how he’s doing and whether he’s close or further behind. And finally, I think an awful lot about what the next meal will be and when it will be eaten. But a lot of the time, I don’t really think about anything at all. I just enjoy the ride.

Day 9 – Newport to Clark Fork

62 miles today.  Great weather. We awoke at our campground and biked across the street to the Safeway for breakfast and coffee (Thanks Carol Campbell for the Starbucks card) and sandwiches that we stashed on board for this afternoon and headed out and up. The climb was short (thankfully) and we followed the Pend Oreille River  (pronounced “Pandorell” here) against its flow so there was no more negative altitude but not to bad. We are both getting stronger on the up hills. We reached US 95 into Sandpoint and rode on the shoulder with the trucks and other traffic. (A word of thanks to all the drivers of various rigs that actually pay attention to cyclists and give us equal status on the roads. Many of the shoulders around here are very narrow so drivers that give us room are very much appreciated). After a bit we hooked up with a bike path into Sandpoint that was the roughest we’ve yet seen – bumps, holes, ridges, etc. – but at least we weren’t cheek by jowel with lumber trucks. There are supposed to be nice beaches in Sandpoint on the Pend Oreille Lake but we didn’t find them so finally pulled off and ate our Safeway sandwiches while trespassing about 6 feet onto a very nice lake front property.

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Lake Pend Oreille

Postprandial we got back on route 200 which is the least bike friendly road we’ve seen – no shoulder, rough gravel edges, and lotsa traffic. Eventually we came across a road crew doing road repair and the flag men were kind to us and let us slide ahead of traffic. For most of the rest of the way we could time our exposure on the road for when they would let cars and trucks through so pulled off until  the road behind us was clear and then ride more or less worry free. This gave us a chance to read some historical markers and learned that near Hope, Washington, was one of the first fur trading posts established in the NW territories so now we can blame all the downfall on that guy!

imageRiding ever Northeastward we finally found Clark Fork.
While we thought from our maps that we had crossed all of Idaho today, once we checked into our hotel (it is supposed to rain all day tomorrow) we learned we still have 8 miles to go! Our room rate came with two free drinks at the pub next door where, eavesdropping, we learned more about biker culture (think Hell’s Angel’s type bikers) than we ever knew, then walked a bit down the road to the best meal we’ve had so far at the “Squeeze Inn.” Salmon raviolis etc were great and the mom and two daughters that run the place had painted a Strega Nona on the kitchen door complete with her overflowing pasta pot.

We saw Osprey on their nests and an eagle today so we can cross those birds off our life lists.

Tomorrow we head into Montana in the general direction of Glacier but it’s unclear at the moment if the road through the park will be open. Stay tuned.

A great day of touring today!