Day 44 – Hillsboro to Taliesin

52 miles to the triumphal entry to Taliesin. Cue the trumpet voluntary.

Starting from Hillsboro we were on state highway 80 with Ray leading the way. Mary kindly took our panniers in the car so we were without many pounds of gear. At one point I thought that even though I had dumped my bags the pedaling was still hard then looked down at my cycle computer and saw I was going 8 miles per hour faster than the day before.

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These rock outcroppings along the road reminded us of the strong horizontal lines of much of Wright’s architecture

We made it to Richland Center at 9:15 and met Lon, the president of the A.D. German Warehouse Conservancy. Wright designed the building in the 1920s and it is the only Wright building in his home town of Richland Center. Lon met us at the building and after going over its history took us on a memorable tour both inside and outside. The Conservancy has great plans for the restoration of the warehouse but now runs tours on the weekends. I’ve included a few photos we took but to get the full impact of the warehouse’s presence and the revitalization efforts, visit their website: www.adgermanwarehouse.org.

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The building with its Mayan frieze on the top level stands out in Richland Center and Wright incorporated elements he had used in Midway Gardens and other projects. He and the owner, A.D. German had been friends since childhood and Wright traded design work for supplies needed to feed and care for the apprentices at Taliesin.

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Wright developed an innovative (for the time) method of tying the concrete slabs into the columns and capitals so that the weight of the building and its contents were born on the columns and not the exterior brick walls. This construction method is standard practice now.

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Frank Lloyd Wright’s father was the pastor at this church (L) in Richland Center and the house on the right is the leading contender among 7 houses that are alleged to be Wright’s birthplace – no one knows for sure which house is truly the one in which he was born.

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Our arrival with Wright’s Taliesin as backdrop

We reluctantly got back on our bikes for the remaining 27 miles to Spring Green and Taliesin. We stayed at Tan-y-Deri, a beautiful house Wright built for his aunts. Again, our photos don’t do the place justice so read about its history: https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/A_Fireproof_House_for_$5000.  and http://www.flwright.org/researchexplore/wrightbuildings/porterhouse

Jason, the Residence Life Manager at the Frank Lloyd Wright School of Architecture, welcomed us in and generously provided us with food and drink to restore our road weary bones. We went to dinner with students and guests at Hillside and shared some of our stories from the trip.

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Tomorrow we are off to see more Wright houses in Racine and Madison.

Day 43 – La Crosse to Hillsboro

67 miles.  All on unpaved bike trail.

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The beginning of our bike path day

The entrance to the La Crosse River Trail was very near our hotel. Most of the reviews of the trail bemoaned its sorry condition and warned against riding it with anything other than a fat tire mountain bike – not what we’re riding. We had planned to meet another Wright Foundation Board member, Ray, in Sparta, a little town 22 miles down the trail to bike with him to Hillsboro and Ray had learned that the actual condition of the trail was quite a bit different from the reviews and was very rideable. Besides, the highway alternative is very hilly so we gave the trail a shot and it was good.

There is a $5 daily user fee payable at a kiosk at the trail head so we stopped to pay our dues and were engulfed with mosquitos! A quick getaway freed us from the swarm and got us on our way. The surface of the original crushed limestone path was largely eroded but the dirt base was fine for riding with no ruts or potholes. I think the number of bad trail reviews is yet another proof that it is mostly negative views that get posted on the web. Very few people will take the time to write something positive.

We made it to Sparta just as Ray was riding up so the timing was perfect and away the three of us rode. The Elroy-Sparta Trail was the first rail to trail conversion in the country and includes three very dark railroad tunnels from the late 1800s through which one must walk the bike.  Water dripped from overhead and seeped down the stone walls illuminated eerily by our very bright LED bike lights. The longest tunnel is over 3500 feet long of total darkness. The cool air inside the tunnels was welcome on this hot and humid day and we emerged through a fog of condensation at the other end.

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Made it through one tunnel.  Two more to go!

On we rode to the town of Kendall where we stopped at a bar (The Hidden Inn) for lunch and wi fi so Ray and Maja could join in a Foundation Board conference call. The call lasted long enough for all three of us to dread getting back on the bikes but at least Maja and I had our first taste of Wisconsin fried cheese curds!

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Maja and Ray paying close attention to their Foundation Board conference call in the biker bar in Kendall

After the call we dragged slowly to Hillsboro and the Hillsboro Hotel where we are recycling and headed to dinner at the Hillsboro Brewing Company – they make a great IPA.  Tomorrow we ride through Richland Center and have just arranged a tour of Wright’s A.D. German Warehouse and hope to see the house where old Frank was born.

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We will send this photo to folks in Bangor, Maine, Maja’s hometown. This is Bangor, Wisconsin.

Day 42 – Pepin to La Crosse

72 miles.  Good biking day … for the most part.

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This collection of skis formed a fence along the road as we left Pepin. Note the Hilary sign – the second one we’ve seen on our trip that now numbers 6 states.

Our route stayed on State 35, The Great River Road, from the beginning almost to our hotel in Onalaska, La Crosse.  We never strayed far from the Mississippi or the train tracks so it was flat most of the way with a decent shoulder and smooth pavement.

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When we had our three day stay in Glacier National Park waiting for the pass to open we attended a Park Ranger lecture about bald eagles and learned that at one point, the total US population of the national bird was 480 mating pairs, endangered by the use of DDT.  Genetic studies place the minimum number of mating pairs necessary for any species’ survival somewhere around 460 so bald eagles were truly on the knife edge of extinction. Now there are estimated to be over 5000 nesting pairs in the continental US with an estimated 70,000 birds in North America. Yesterday when we stopped for lunch we saw two bald eagles swooping low and landing on a spit of land in the river. Today we saw two more of them, one in a tree next to the road. We also saw lots of vultures but the bald eagle’s survival is an arresting story.

We stopped for lunch at a fruit and vegetable stand and were told of a more scenic short cut to La Crosse so, against the cyclists’ rule never to trust a non-cyclist for route information, we followed her advice and enjoyed a few miles of country road cycling away from the zooming trucks on the state road.

After we rejoined old 35 for the last run in to town we made the decision to follow the business loop instead of the busy highway. Cue the “Fail” buzzer! We had to fight for road space along a 5 mile construction zone with no shoulder, no place to pull off and impatient motorists and truck drivers squeezing by us with little or no room to do so. It was a very stressful end to the day.

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This cluster of water lilies reminded us both of the dendriform columns that Wright used in the Great Workroom at the Johnson’s Wax Building

Tomorrow we will be on one of the first rail to trail bike paths in the country that, we are assured, is in better repair than the reviews

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Maja posing with corn that is growing ever taller as we ride along

Wisconsinites

20:6.  I’m surprised by how many more of the one thing I’m counting there are than the other and also by how low both numbers are given that we’ve covered over 2,000 miles.

We are spending the night in Pepin, Wisconsin, a wonderful little lakeside town.  In fact, we had the best dinner of our trip so far at a restaurant called Harbor View Cafe. I would highly recommend it to anyone who is in this neck of the woods.

Also of interest is that Laura Ingalls Wilder, the author of Little House on the Prairie, was born just 6 miles north of here in February 1867, 4 months before Frank Lloyd Wright was born, also in Wisconsin–in Richland Center–about 120 miles or so from here.  Laura became a school teacher at age 16 and was married at age 18.  She didn’t start writing until age 65 and was surprised at how popular her books were.  She continued writing until her death in 1957 at age 90.

As I was reading the historic marker about Laura and realized that she was born the same year as Frank Lloyd Wright, I couldn’t help but compare her with him. There were certainly many similarities from the start-both were born in the same year in Wisconsin, not far apart, and both were from families of limited means but which were very focused on education.  Interestingly, neither had formal training in their field of success. Frank never went to architecture school and Laura never graduated from high school.  Both were also very successful late in their careers. While Frank had had major successes throughout his career, he also reinvented himself several times over the course of his life. For example, he started thinking about and planning the Guggenheim Museum–considered to be one of his masterpieces–about the same time as Laura began writing her books at age 65 and the building was completed in 1959, the year of Wright’s death at age 91.

Of course, there were also significant differences in their personalities.  Laura was very surprised that anyone would be interested in reading her books, since she didn’t consider herself a writer and was not particularly well educated even though she had been a teacher.  Frank, on the other hand, was supremely self-confident, bordering on arrogant, and once suggested that he could rebuild the nation in an interview with Mike Wallace.  I wonder what they thought of each other.  They were quite famous, so I imagine they knew of each other and their common backgrounds. It’s interesting to ponder…

The Willey House

Steve Sikora and Lynette Erickson-Sikora took on the challenge of restoring The Malcolm and Nancy Willey House (1934) in 2002. After the Willeys, the house had seen several owners and eventually sat derelict for several years exposed to the elements.  Parts of the house were never fully fleshed out even though Nancy Willey prevailed upon Wright to provide drawings for built ins and other cabinetry.  Steve and Lynette have done a prodigious amount of research on the house and have found drawings, period photographs, and letters between Wright and the Willeys in their effort to faithfully bring the house back to its original glory.

This house is the earliest expression of Wright’s Usonian ideas – open plan, L shaped around a garden terrace, simple materials, etc. and may be the inspiration for ranch houses of later years. It is Wright’s further exploration into redefining how the Amrican family lives. The clients represented a younger, middle class market that was different from Wright’s “typical” clients from his earlier Prairie style years who were older, wealthier and required larger homes. From the description that Steve gave us as he showed us the house, Nancy Willey was as influential in the design of the house as was Wright and wanted a house that was easy to maintain and that could work with them in the entertaining that was a part of their University of Minnesota life.

Originally, the odd shaped lot featured panoramic views of the Mississippi River and Wright oriented the house and developed the plan utilizing many diagonal aspects of the site’s relation to the river.

At every turn, from the reconstruction of the kitchen cabinets to the acquisition of period authentic appliances and furnishings and the craftsmanship of Stafford Norris,  the attention to the details throughout is impressive and inspiring.

Our few photos don’t do the restoration of the Willey House justice nor does my writing so I encourage you to go to the Willey House website for in depth information and beautiful photographs. www.thewilleyhouse.com.

Thank you Sterve for meeting us for the very informative tour on a Sunday morning and for all the work and TLC you and your family have put into this restoration.

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Day 41 – Golden Valley (-ish) to Pepin.

45 miles. It’s more like 60 from Craig and Steve’s house but since this part of our journey is the 180 mile detour to Spring Green and Taliesin and not on our cross country route, we “allowed” Steve to drive us through the Twin Cities (simply called “The Cities” around these parts) and rush hour traffic to the town of Prescot, WI, where we began pedaling. Please don’t think we are cheating, these are extra miles and in a different category! But we did appreciate the ride.

On the way we were alerted by a passing motorist that one of our bikes was perilously close to falling off of Steve’s bike rack and, after stopping, we found that my bike was being dragged on its rear tire! A careful inspection in Prescot showed only a scuffed tire so disaster was avoided.

The forecast for today had been for very strong winds in our faces and sunshine but the day, thankfully, started very overcast and almost windless. So away we went. I think we have determined that two days’ rest is too much for our legs and our motivation because today was hard. There were lots of ups and downs but the old energy levels just weren’t there. Going forward we may limit our rest days to a mere one.

For the most part the ride went smoothly – nice shoulder, not too much traffic, glimpses of the river. We reached Lake Pepin. The lake is more like a bulge in the Mississippi formed by the confluence of that river and the Cherokee eons ago.

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Lake Pepin

We had a nice break for lunch at a park on a bluff above the lake where we saw a pair of bald eagles on the river below.

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Lunch break high above Lake Pepin

We then pedaled the rest of the way into the town of Pepin and the Pepin Hotel. It was hot for the last part of our ride so we walked to the public beach (they also have a nice sheltered marina for sailboats) and dunked ourselves.

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A refreshing dip in the Mississip.

On the way to the beach we spotted a nice looking restaurant for dinner and we just ate there, by unanimous acclaim the best meal we’ve had on our trip so far! We heartily recommend the Harbor View Café.

Tomorrow we’re off to La Crosse, WI, and had planned on taking a scenic bike path that runs through state parks and bird sanctuaries but a little research revealed that the trail is suffering greatly from lack of maintenance due to state budget cuts and is unrideable with our bikes. There is a fee for using the trail so one has to wonder where that money is going.

Antique shops on the route and you can tell folks around here take their fishing seriously!

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I think I could catch up with Maja on this thing!

Cast your vote for the most ridiculous tan lines. Vote early and vote often.

Another Fine Rest Day

We’ll get back on the road tomorrow I promise but we’ve needed these two days to recharge. First of all and most importantly, thanks to our friends Craig and Steve for putting us up, feeding us and allowing us to take a breather in their fabulous house. They helped us get our bikes to the One on One bike shop downtown for overhauls so our wheels are as good as new and ready to roll. Maja’s bike needed a new rear tire, the cables on both bikes needed tightening and both chains were replaced.  Thanks to Gene and crew for giving the Surlys the TLC they needed.  We feel confident they are up to the task of getting us to Bar Harbor.

This afternoon we reconnected with our friends Kip and Cindy we knew originally in Belgium – old home week – for a lunch full of old stories and laughter! This evening we’ll load up our panniers and make sure all is shipshape.

This morning Steve Sikora showed us the Willey House, an unforgettable experience of a meticulously restored and very important 1934 Wright house. I’ll write more about that in a separate blog.

“Midway along life’s journey…”

Apologies to Dante for the lede.

We are luxuriating in a couple of day’s R and R at our friends Steve and Craig’s amazing house on not one but two lakes. It was very nice to wake up “normally” with a few moments of sleepy headedness instead of having to come around by pedaling up a steep hill. We are, more or less, half way through our trek to Bar Harbor. I say “more or less” since we are now deviating from the ACA route for a swing down through Wisconsin to Spring Green and Taliesin. We’ll ride along the Mississippi to Lacrosse then angle east to get to Wright’s Wisconsin home passing through the town of his birth, Richland Center, along a part of the newly designated Frank Lloyd Wright Trail. From there we will head northwest across Wisconsin and eventually reconnect with the mapped route around the north side of Lake Michigan and into the Upper Peninsula of Michigan. Our detour to Taliesin will add about 180 miles to our trip so I’m not sure where we stand on eventual total mileage.

There has never been a three month period in my life where I have been so totally focused on one goal, one project. I have to confess that there were days early on when the task seemed daunting, as in “how can I keep pedaling day after day for three months.”  The first climbs up the Cascades did little to buoy my confidence but once over the Continental Divide, I felt like this was something we could do. Certainly every day (one might say every hour) presents its mini challenges in terms of hills, wind, maybe rain but the little lesson I learn almost daily is “one mile at a time.” I think we both break down the day’s ride into segments and check the box for that segment when we get there and then it’s on to the next one, the next segment. Sometimes I break the total mileage goal into percentages and tell myself, “There’s 2% finished.” Or figure out how many minutes at a given speed each mile will take then, my mind occupied on the math, suddenly I find we’re half way or almost done.

A lot of our riding has been in file since, except for occasional stretches of deserted highway or on the bike trail, there is no room to ride side by side. Riding one behind the other is not conducive to conversation so we tend to store up comments or topics until break time or until we can ride next to each other. There always is that great moment when one of us will announce, “Half way there” or “Ten more miles to go” and those declarations unfailingly boost my spirits.

I’ve found that my mind wanders often to music: I spent a lot of idle brain power the other day thinking that I finally understood how Charlie Parker sculpted “Yardbird Suite.” And before that it was hearing in my head the multiple signatures of a Mahavishnu Orchestra piece.  None of this is significant in the long run but often solves mysteries I never had the opportunity to visualize clearly. Of course the real danger in all this is that preoccupied, I am not paying 100% attention to the road and have actually run into Maja at least twice!

Singing the praises of warm showers

18:6  OK.  You all have not been guessing what these numbers mean. So I’m going to start giving you hints.  Remember, the winner gets a Frank Lloyd Wright design phone cover.

Hint # 1:  the numbers compare two different things.  They increase more rapidly in larger towns/cities.

I have been asked by some to provide a little more info on our Warm Showers hosts and experiences so here goes (sorry, no great photos).

As you know from our previous postings, our warm showers experiences have been 100% positive from a purely people perspective.  Our hosts have been welcoming, generous and warm.  So it will come as no surprise that most of them are in service related jobs, or were before they retired.  Hosts have included teachers, social workers (addiction, child welfare, parental instruction), physicians, hospital technicians, government workers (Federal, State and City).  In fact, we have had only one host that hasn’t fit into the service-related category in some way.  Many are active Christians and believe strongly in being generous towards others.  Most, but not all, had some level of cycling experience.

Our routine when we arrive is to be shown our room (we spent the night in a tent at one warm showers location) where we drop our gear.  We then take a shower, which makes us feel human again, and if we need to, do a laundry.  We then get together with our hosts to get acquainted and then generally have dinner together.  Sometimes we help.  Most often we are ordered to just relax.  Dinners have been without exception fabulous!  Pasta is generally the meal of preference, but we have had chili, bento boxes, and chicken with quinoa (which we actually fixed for one of our hosts who had had a long day).  We tend to turn in pretty early and get up at 6 am to be on the road by 7 am.  Our hosts have also treated us to yummy breakfasts–often including pancakes!  I am a pancake convert.  At home I eat oatmeal pretty much every day for breakfast but have only had oatmeal once since we’ve been on our journey.

Homes have ranged from farm houses, to lake houses, to apartments, to subdivision homes, to city homes, to houses in the middle of nowhere.  Everyone of them has been a unique slice of America and has offered us insights into the American experience.

Our dinner conversations have been the best part of our warm shower travels.  We have learned so much!

Three of our hosts have been involved in animal husbandry.  We could have talked about that all day long.  John and Mary raised Angus cattle, principally to sell the bulls and calves or to use the Bulls as breed stock. The day we were there, they had just finished the long and arduous process of artificially inseminating their cows.  Once that was done, they would also cover the cows with visits from live bulls, just to improve the chances of insemination.  The plan is that cows will give birth more or less at the same time, making life very hectic around calving time, but also improving predictability.  Insemination is done in the field with the cattle being rounded up on horseback and herded into enclosures. Andrew and Gretchen’s family raise turkeys and have done so for generations.  We had no idea that Minnesota is one of the biggest turkey states in the country.  They also focus on selling the offspring, rather than the meat.  In this case, they sell fertilized eggs and Gretchen spent some time for a couple of years gathering eggs from the nests, which involves lifting the turkeys off their nests and reaching in for the eggs.  There are several shifts of egg thieves every day and thousands of birds.  Amazing and incredibly hard work, I imagine.  Lifting one turkey from the freezer to the counter is about all I can handle!  And Jason’s family has been raising bees for five generations.  If they didn’t move the bees from California, where they pollinate almond trees, to North Dakota every year, they would have to feed the bees because there’s not enough pollen in California during the summer for the bees to survive.   Jason also said that his grandfather didn’t have to worry about all the diseases and hive collapse that bee keepers face today.  They lose about 50% of their hives every year, but they have enough hives that they can split to make up for the loss.  Smaller bee keepers have a much more difficult time.  We tasted some of their product, and it was yummy!

Bonnie and her husband Jeff have opened their house to others for years.  They live in an area that, until recently, had a baseball team that played in the league for college players to improve their skills during the summer–like the Cape Cod league and they have housed numerous players over the years.  Consequently, they know and have kept in touch with several pro baseball players.  Keeping in touch includes calling them for every home run and sending them home made chocolate chip cookies every year on their birthdays. Unfortunately, the team recently went belly up, but the upside for us was that Bonnie and Jeff are now warm showers hosts to fill some of the void. They also own a lakeside resort in Minnesota that they run on the honor system. You leave a check to cover your stay when you leave. Isn’t that wonderful? And they’ve never had a problem.

Ron and Joyce both had very challenging and rewarding careers in working with drug addicts and child services. They spent the evening after dinner with us driving us around Bismarck and being incredible tour guides. This was way above and beyond, but clearly they also enjoyed it so we didn’t feel too guilty. It was so nice to see things that we normally would not have from our bikes and to do it from the comfort of a car.

Joel was a man after Charles’ heart–a baseball fanatic, albeit a Cubs fan. So he and Charles talked for hours while I went downstairs and read. A rewarding evening for all involved 😉.

And of course we have always learned about the local environment, politics, and life in general.

I could go on and on, but won’t bore you. We can’t wait to get back home and become hosts ourselves. Phoenix is on the Southern cross-country route, so we’re hoping to be able to reciprocate in some small way for all of the hospitality we’ve received. If you’re interest, search for warm showers and you’ll find everything you need to know.

 

Day 38 – St. Cloud to Golden Valley (Minneapolis)

57 miles. Nice tail wind following the Mississippi into Minneapolis

After a great dinner and night’s sleep we got away early. John was kind enough to hop on his bike and guide us out of town and on our way.  Several days ago we met a cyclist from Minnesota who advised us that the official American Cycling maps take a big semi circle around Minneapolis and bring you in from the east and he suggested staying on the rail to trails into St. Cloud and into Minneapolis from the west. This change saved at least a day on our trek if not two and many miles.

So, thanks to John we got on our route quickly and enjoyed a full day of tail winds. His directions were turn perfect and Susan’s cookies kept us energized til we reached our rendezvous point where our friend Steve from Paradise Valley (he and Craig also have a fantastic house in the Golden Valley part of Minneapolis) met us. Like a well coordinated military maneuver, Steve loaded our bikes onto the car and drove us downtown to the One on One bike shop recommended by Surly, the manufacturer of our bikes, for a mid tour overhaul.

We are back at Steve and Craig’s and will luxuriate for a two day rest!  Woo!

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Hard at work on the blog!